Around Town: With Across, chef Viraf Patel and his wife Prakriti tap into the latter’s Nepali roots as they serve Himalayan cuisine

After restrictions were lifted, she spent two entire years, 2022 and 2023, back in Nepal. It wasn’t just her who missed it—Viraf, her partner of nearly two decades, also felt the pull. “He’s built his own connection with Nepal,” she said, reflecting that even though she spent the first 16 years of her life in Nepal, she had never explored the mountains until recently.

“Two years ago, we explored western Nepal under the Annapurna range, and it was exhilarating. This year, we ventured east to the foothills of Everest, where we spent New Year’s Eve. The experience was humbling,” she recalled. The terrain’s harshness and the simplicity of life and food left a deep impression. “Unlike the western region, which is more accessible and tourist-heavy—with cuisines often adapted for a broader audience—the eastern side felt raw and untouched. We stayed with local people, sharing their homes and eating meals dictated entirely by what was available that day,” she added.

‘Across’ features minimalistic design, allowing the focus to rest squarely on its offerings—a thoughtful homage to the simplicity and raw beauty of the Himalayan regions that inspired it. (Express Photo)

“We’ve always enjoyed the food from that region, but this year changed our perspective. Being there awakened us to the unique ingredients and the increasing challenges of accessing them as you ascend higher and the terrain transforms. We wanted to bring a slice of that to Mumbai,” added chef Viraf, who is known for conceptualising and reviving some of Mumbai’s most notable dining spots and founding the city’s famed Café Zoe (now shut).

‘Across’ features minimalistic design, allowing the focus to rest squarely on its offerings—a thoughtful homage to the simplicity and raw beauty of the Himalayan regions that inspired it.

We began our evening with a revelation—a simple yet delightful Pomelo Salad (Rs 600). It featured just pomelo and curd, lightly seasoned with cumin powder. We’d never thought of pairing a citrus fruit with curd, and we must say, this combination is a winner. “It’s not something you make on any occasion but rather a simple dish that women when they gather together on winter afternoons have,” shared Prakriti, adding that in Nepal, cumin and coriander—abundantly available in the region—are often used for seasoning, lending simplicity to their cuisine and allowing ingredients to shine.

The next dish we couldn’t stop reaching for was the Fry Bread (Rs 550), a Tibetan-style fried flatbread that’s a popular breakfast choice among trekkers. Crisp on the outside with just the right moistness inside, it was topped with melted Kalimpong cheese. Traditionally eaten with honey and chutney, ‘Across’ combines these flavours into a spicy scotch bonnet honey dip—a delightful mix of spicy tingles and sweet relief. This dip elevated the dish, making it irresistible even long after the main course had arrived.

While small plates like Timur Potato (Rs 550) and Taro Chips (Rs 625) were forgettable—though the latter came with a delicious pumpkin dip infused with cold-pressed mustard oil—we were completely sold on the Buff Choila (Rs 700).

Fry Bread (left) and Potato gnochhi (right). (Express Photos)

During a recent visit to Nepal, this writer heard the Newari community speak passionately about their beloved Choila—a dish of spiced grilled buffalo meat. The restaurant lives up to its reputation, presenting beautiful pink-hued buff pieces paired with spring onions and nutty red rice flakes. The flakes and spring onion add a satisfying crunch, but the true star is the perfectly cooked meat. The cumin spice rub gives the buff a distinct taste.

From the mains, the Potato Gnocchi (Rs 700) and Mutton Curry (Rs 1125) stood out. The gnocchi featured soft, pillowy dumplings in a mildly spiced potato broth, topped with a paneer-like fresh cheese that enhanced its subtle flavours. The mutton curry, on the other hand, was an indulgent delight. Braised for eight hours, the thick, flavourful curry was reminiscent of dal gosht, with perfectly tender, melt-in-your-mouth mutton served alongside rice. The effort invested in slow-cooking the meat was evident in every bite.

To cap off the meal, we sipped on the Estate Manager’s Evening Tea (Rs 950), a creative take on mountain evenings when uncles “pretend” to drink tea that’s spiked with alcohol. This smokey tea with bourbon whiskey transported us straight to the chilly Himalayan evenings. Served with a slice of slightly sweet and nutty Kanchan cheese, it was delightful.

For dessert, we tried the Apple Cremeschnitte (Rs 500), a reimagined version of Laakhamari—a crunchy local delicacy made from flour and sugar. Here, it was transformed into a puff pastry with whipped vanilla cream and stewed Himachal apples. While it was an ambitious creation, it fell slightly short in flavour compared to the stellar meal that preceded it.

Where: 5, Hari Chambers, 58/64 Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Fort, Mumbai – 400001
When: Wednesday to Sunday, 5.30 pm onwards
Meal for two: Rs 4000 + taxes
For reservation, call 7506128945