Know Your City: With Ramadan in full flow, Bengaluru’s Mosque Road becomes a foodies’ paradise

With people of all faiths and backgrounds descending from every part of the city to sample these iftar treats, the street turns into a miniature cross-section of Bengaluru itself in the evenings. (Express photo by Jithendra M)

These also became a place where one could find special Ramadan dishes. “For instance, the baida roti (a flatbread stuffed with meat and eggs) was very sought- after, as well as onion and keema samosas, which were a huge favourite. These things became popular in a small way, and then other vendors also saw the popularity. People started putting up booths on the footpaths selling Ramadan goodies,” Gafoor says. While vendors start setting up in the afternoon, the street comes alive after the evening prayers end.

While initially the customers were local Muslims breaking their fast, word spread to the rest of the Karnataka capital, turning the area into a regular fixture for Bengaluru foodies, growing over time. After the pandemic, the food stalls and vendors are back in full swing this year, with all parking space taken up and traffic slowing to a crawl.

According to Fraser Town local and hospitality professional Aslam Gafoor, Mosque Road has taken over as a Muslim cuisine hub from the nearby Shivajinagar in the last decade or so. (Express photo by Jithendra M)

Cuisines from different Muslim communities across the country are represented. While north Indian food is represented by dishes such as paya soup, nihari and multitudes of kebabs, Hyderabadi influence is seen in the form of the rich haleem stew as well as the iconic patthar ka gosht (meat cooked over a heated granite slab). This dish supposedly has its origin in the kitchen of the Nizam, with a desperate chef who had forgotten his utensils improvising with a nearby stone. The Kerala influence is seen in the seafood dishes, porottas and biryanis, while other placards advertise exotic offerings such as camel kebabs.

Of course, with the sheer number of non-vegetarian dishes, vegetarians might feel a little left out, but they can still sample classic sweets such as khova naan and phirni, as well as assorted sharbats and faloodas.

While north Indian food is represented by dishes such as paya soup, nihari and multitudes of kebabs, Hyderabadi influence is seen in the form of the rich haleem stew as well as the iconic patthar ka gosht. (Express photo by Jithendra M)

The more adventurous eaters might want to try out dishes advertising bheja, or brains. Mutton brain puffs sold by Albert Bakery, which has been in operation for over a century, are particularly well known. Even before the stalls on Mosque Road take off in earnest, the small bakery is filled to the brim with customers lining up, from locals to the occasional foreign tourist. Other local outlets such as Charminar and Karama have also made names for themselves in more recent years. But according to Gafoor, “the beauty of it is that no one looks at names or brands at this time, and they just see the food that is in front of them. Even if these stalls have names, they are not there for the rest of the year”.

While initially the customers were local Muslims breaking their fast, word spread to the rest of the Karnataka capital, turning the area into a regular fixture for Bengaluru foodies, growing over time. (Express photo by Jithendra M)

Foodies with an eye for history should also keep an eye out for remnants of Fraser Town’s past on this road. One of the more well-known ones is the Hajee Sir Ismail Sait Mosque, which gives the road its popular name. It was named after a prominent businessman and philanthropist from the Cutchi Memon community who donated the land it stands on. He also inaugurated the famous Russell Market. The Bethesda Assembly Church, which dates back to 1918, can also be seen on this road. At the intersection of Coles Road and Mosque Road, one can also see Fraser Town’s foundation stone, laid down in 1910.