Around Town: With Bawri, Chef Amninder Sandhu returns to Mumbai with signature Indian food and open-fire cooking

Discussing Bawri’s recent inauguration in Mumbai on December 22, Chef Amninder Sandhu expressed, “I have added some dishes that are fun but I ensure that I keep the core unadulterated. It’s rewarding when diners associate our food with their mom or grandmother’s cooking – that’s the ultimate compliment for me”.

Designed by renowned interior designers Muninder Chowdhry and Vishakha Dholakia Chowdhry, celebrated for their work on the television show ‘Small Budget Big Makeover’, the 130-seater restaurant spread across 4,500 sqft features an impressive island bar at its core, adorned with rugs as tapestry and a wall inspired by Rajasthani baori (water reservoir) that captures the essence of Jaipur’s old city.

Gucchi-stuffed Mushroom Butter (left); breads being prepared in tandoor (center); Kela Kakori Kebab (right)

The design incorporates a rich selection of materials, including copper, cane, and crochet. Earning just as much attention are their arched cane envelopes with floor-level seating, reminiscent of their iconic low-seating cabanas from the Goa outpost. As we settled into the cosy space, our attention was drawn to the intricately hand-woven crocheted ceilings and four-foot-tall panel artworks showcasing India-inspired hand illustrations in vibrant shades of red.

When it comes to the dining experience, all the guests here are served Mohabbat ka Sherbat, a mild Gin-based cocktail that borrows from Old Delhi’s famous rose drink.

Once past that, we began our meal with Gucchi-stuffed Mushroom Butter (Rs 1,250) with walnut and nachni soil, which was so good that we found ourselves returning to it repeatedly. Another appetiser we enjoyed was sigri-cooked Kela Kakori Kebab (Rs 575) crafted using raw banana and accompanied by a green chutney skillfully prepared on a silbatta.

While the Kohlrabi Salad (Rs 485), featuring beetroot, pomelo, Kashmiri honey and pistachio, looked divine, it failed to leave a lasting impression on us. The Gunpowder Paneer (Rs 485), a Manipuri black rice dosa filled with a stuffing reminiscent of paneer bhurji did not meet our expectations either. We polished it off with Go Gaga (Rs 800), a delightful gin concoction infused with Naga passion fruit.

The cocktail menu, we learnt from co-founder Sahil Sambhi, offers eight options, each expertly crafted using indigenous fruits. The teetotallers also have the same options minus liquor.

An array of mains at Bawri (left); Malai Kulfi Sandwich

What we absolutely enjoyed here were the mains — the Dal Makhani with white butter (Rs 485) was so delightful that it alone would entice us to return repeatedly.

Another dining companion, a fellow food writer, had only praises for the slow-cooked Mutton Nihari (Rs 899) and Bawri Butter Chicken (Rs 665). We also liked the tangy Wild Mango Curry (Rs 665) served with Idiyappam. The mains arrived with an assortment of breads, Sheermal, Bhakarkhani (both Rs 260), Bawri Naan with red chilli and garlic, and Seeded Amaranth Roti (both Rs 170).

Each of these delights was impeccably baked in traditional earthen clay tandoors, evoking memories of chef’s acclaimed restaurant Arth, which had a gas-free kitchen.

“I found my rhythm when I started open-fire cooking. Coal and wood lend complexity that can never be replicated with gas,” shared chef Sandhu.

The restaurant unfortunately had to be shut in 2020, leaving Sadhu in her own words with PTSD (post-traumatic stress disorder). “I had decided that I won’t open another restaurant, at least not in India,” she shared, adding that Arth would have been all over the world had it not been shut.

Things changed when she met Sambhi of Yuvi Hospitality.

“For the first time, I met someone as excited as me. Otherwise, I would always get a lukewarm response from my partners,” she recalled, adding that the reception to the Goa outpost has been beyond their expectations.

“I always wanted to see a queue outside my restaurant and this gave me that,” added Sandhu, as we received desserts on our table. The classic and delightful Malai Kulfi Sandwich is an ode by the chef to her karmbhoomi Mumbai.