For lovers of gobi manchurian, its siren-red hue is a beacon, calling to them to indulge in its crispy deliciousness. Yet, for the councillors of the north Goan town of Mapusa, that same colour is an indication of what is wrong with the popular snack and is one reason why it has reportedly been banned from being sold at street stalls during a “zatra” (temple festival). Besides the use of synthetic colour, other concerns raised were poor-quality sauces and unhygienic conditions of preparation.
The cold logic of health and safety standards is hard to argue with, but the fact is that street food consumption is not driven by calculations about which food is healthier. It’s not as if those who partake of roadside chaat and kebabs are unaware of all the ways in which these indulgences could be the stuff of cardiac and insulin-resistant nightmares.
From oil that is reused multiple times to ingredients that are exposed to the elements, eating any kind of street fare is a gamble. The question, then, is: Why is gobi manchurian a target, when every other street food, too, can pose a health risk? Or is the ban not so much about enforcing safety standards, but targeting a food that is seen as non-native, or non-Indian?
This is not the first time that gobi manchurian has attracted official ire in Goa. The municipal councils of Bicholim and Marmugao have previously raised similar concerns to prevent street stalls from serving gobi manchurian at festivals. It could be asked whether those who have sought to ban this dish believe that all other kinds of street foods — many of which are also as greasy and additive-laden as gobi manchurian — unfailingly meet these same standards. Rather than banning one dish and disrupting the livelihoods of small vendors, better implementation of existing regulations is needed. Clearly, the municipal council of Mapusa has missed the gobi for the manchurian.
