The Indian fashion industry has been thriving, with many more designers now showcasing their creativity and craftsmanship on the global stage. But the glittering facade of the fashion industry often conceals harsh realities. There’s a growing question mark on the ethics of the industry — are these designers genuinely committed to inclusivity and sustainability, or is it all for the limelight? Today’s Gen Z consumers are more conscious than ever, seeking not only style but also accountability. Recent instances, like designer Rahul Mishra’s heartfelt tribute to his master tailor, thus demand our attention. It’s time we explore what happens behind the scenes of the fashion industry, spotlighting the often-hidden heroes who bring these creations to life.
Mishra recently showcased an exquisite dress worn by global pop sensation Selena Gomez. The dress was a work of art, adorned with intricate hand embroidery, a harmonious fusion of tradition and modernity. But what made it truly unique was the motif: An image of Munir Ahmed, Rahul Mishra’s master tailor and an essential part of his team for over a decade.
This dress turned heads on red carpets and made headlines, but it was more than a fashion statement. It was a tribute to the dedication and expertise of artisans like Munir Ahmed. It was an acknowledgement of the hands that craft magic and sew the dreams of designers into reality — often hidden from the glamour spotlight. By putting Munir Ahmed’s image on the dress, Mishra amplified the importance of these unsung heroes, giving them the long-deserved recognition they deserve.
The dedication and craft of workers like Ahmed is the bedrock of the fashion industry, yet their stories often go untold. Many are underpaid, overworked — even invisible — hidden behind the industry’s narrative of glamour and luxury. To create an inclusive and sustainable industry, designers worldwide must embrace change. It’s time to recognise that artisans are as essential as the design teams. Designers must give fair treatment to artisans, which goes beyond better wages and includes respect, acknowledgement, and recognition. Designers should spotlight their talents in the media and invite them to the forefront of fashion shows, placing them in the limelight.
To demonstrate a genuine commitment to inclusivity and sustainability, the industry needs a radical shift towards transparency. Designers, big and small, must come forward and officially announce the salaries, perks, and working conditions of their entire workforce on their websites.
Some like Stella McCartney, a renowned British designer, are already upholding principles of transparency, sustainability and ethical fashion. Her supply chain is free from child labour, and she champions fair wages and working conditions. Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee is celebrated for his reverence of traditional Indian craftsmanship. He actively acknowledges the contributions of artisans in his collections, shining a light on their incredible work and inviting them to the fashion forefront.
As we begin to envision this era of ethical, inclusive, and sustainable fashion, let’s also celebrate the artisans who breathe life into every stitch and seam. It’s time to weave the stories of these masters into the fashion narrative, making the industry more vibrant and inclusive. Gen Z, as the torchbearers of change, can steer the fashion world towards a future where every creator and every artisan is given their due respect and acknowledgement. This isn’t just a fashion revolution; it’s a revolution of hearts and minds.
The writer is assistant professor of design at IILM University, Gurugram
