Giorgio Armani set the Oscars red carpet ablaze with his creations; dressed Julia Roberts, Leonardo DiCaprio and all of Hollywood royalty

In the late 1970s, as Hollywood’s traditional studio system gave way to a new wave of free-spirited filmmakers known as “New Hollywood,” a revolution was also taking place in fashion. It was during this cultural shift that Italian designer Giorgio Armani emerged, defining the way celebrities approached style, not just on screen, but in real life. Armani passed away at 91 on Thursday.

One of the earliest and most iconic moments came in 1978, when Diane Keaton accepted her Best Actress Oscar for Annie Hall wearing an oversized beige Armani blazer: a look her character might’ve worn. With that, she became the first Hollywood star to wear Armani on the red carpet.

Diane Keaton in Giorgio Armani at Academy Awards, 1978. (Photo: Armani/Silos/Facebook)

At the time, many actresses were still accustomed to relying on studio wardrobe departments for awards season gowns. Armani, with his minimalist tailoring and understated elegance, was a departure from the norm. Michelle Pfeiffer, for instance, was initially sceptical. “I can dress myself, and who is Giorgio Armani?” she famously said when first approached by the brand. But by 1990, she had fully embraced the designer’s vision. That year, Armani dressed Pfeiffer and four other major stars — Julia Roberts, Jodie Foster, Jessica Lange, and Jessica Tandy — for the Academy Awards, prompting Women’s Wear Daily to dub it “The Armani Awards.”

In fact, after the 62nd Academy Awards had taken place in 1990, WWD wrote, “Most of the big-time stars dumped the glitz and opted for Giorgio’s greatest hits.” The list included Kim Basinger, Robert De Niro, Steven Spielberg, Denzel Washington, Steve Martin, and Tom Cruise. “The star of the night,” the article continued, “was Michelle Pfeiffer, who kicked off Armani-mania last year with an androgynous suit, but this year went for a sleek navy column.” Julia Roberts’ 1990 Golden Globes look, a steel grey oversized Armani suit paired with a white shirt and tie, also became one of the most memorable in the ceremony’s history. The designer’s minimalist yet powerful tailoring offered a new kind of red carpet identity: polished, modern, and confident.

Julia Roberts wore Giorgio Armani to the 47th Annual Golden Globe Awards. (Photo: Armani /Silos/Facebook)

Reflecting on that era in an interview with System Magazine, Armani recalled the state of celebrity fashion before he arrived: “Theatrical and flashy. It was as though actors continued to play a role, even in their real lives. I thought a more natural and personal style was needed off-screen, to be more closely aligned with actors’ on-screen work. ‘New Hollywood’ stories and characters revolved around ideas of realism and continuity between cinema, performance and life. It was a new way of storytelling and expression. How could that not seep into fashion and style?”

Though best known today for his red carpet legacy, Armani’s relationship with Hollywood began in the costume department. In 1980, he designed outfits for Richard Gere in American Gigolo. “That’s also when I first visited Hollywood, and my first time on a movie set,” Armani said of the experience. “Seeing a film being made was a dream come true for a cinephile like me. I found it so exciting, witnessing that ability to transform a story into visual expression. After American Gigolo, I realized the powerful impact that cinema could have on the collective imagination, and the desire to identify with a character’s style. From there came a structured strategy with commercial goals.”

Richard Gere in a scene from the film American Gigolo.

Also Read | Weapons: Indian directors are more terrified of making meaningful horror movies than you are of watching them

Story continues below this ad

Beyond business, Armani formed deep personal ties with major figures in film, notably Martin Scorsese and Francis Ford Coppola, a bond strengthened by shared Italian heritage. According to Roberta Armani, the designer’s niece, his appeal went beyond tailoring: “Robert De Niro, Al Pacino, they all wanted to look a little more relaxed on the red carpet to reflect the times they were living in.” And thus Armani was a go-to choice. His designs became synonymous with success. “Wearing Armani on the red carpet means you’ve made it,” stylist Ali Levine told The Post in 2016. “It’s classic, timeless. No one is going to look bad in Armani.” In fact, by the mid-1990s, the now-famous red carpet question “Who are you wearing?” was often answered simply: “Armani.”

When Leonardo DiCaprio finally won his Oscar, he was wearing an Armani suit.

In fact, when Leonardo DiCaprio finally won his long-awaited Oscar in 2016, Armani quipped: “Caprio deserves it. Thank goodness he was wearing Armani.” He even hosted exclusive pre-Oscar bashes every year, attended by Hollywood’s top talent, serving as high-profile celebrations for nominees and A-list celebrities alike. The designer’s influence extended beyond the awards circuit.

In 2006, Katie Holmes wore a custom off-the-shoulder bridal gown by Armani for her wedding to Tom Cruise in Italy. Armani also dressed the entire wedding party, from Cruise’s navy blue tuxedo to Holmes’s family and their daughter, Suri. Another landmark moment came when Princess Charlene of Monaco chose a heavily embellished off-white silk Duchesse Armani Privé gown for her royal wedding to Prince Albert II, complete with a dramatic train and veil.

Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes made headlines with their Armani-designed wedding attire.
(Photo: Reuters)

Though Giorgio Armani passed away today, his impact on fashion, particularly in the film industry, remains seminal. When asked in a 2022 interview with Business of Fashion how he would like to be remembered, he answered simply: “As a sincere man. I say what I mean.”

From the homepage