New York Says ‘Semma’ To South Indian Cuisine With Vijay Kumar
With Semma, a Michelin-starred South Indian restaurant in Manhattan, chef Vijay Kumar is rewriting regional cuisine’s flavour in New York
Semma, a Tamil word, translates to ‘awesome’; going by the rave reviews and accolades that have come its way, it surely is. This New York-based South Indian restaurant got its first Michelin star, becoming the only Indian restaurant in the US with the honour in 2022. And chef Vijay Kumar, who helms all the culinary adventures that take place in this ‘fun dining’ restaurant, is completely happy in their unapologetic Indianness that has taken NYC dining by the storm.
Semma in New York City
From Tamil Nadu’s Dundigal to NYC, Kumar has traversed an interesting journey, both geographically and personally. And Semma’s menu showcases this brilliantly where you can spot delicacies like Naithai Pirattal (snail curry) and Kudal Varuval (goat’s intestines).
Kumar speaks to us about the origin of Semma, and translating his childhood memories into food.
Tell us the story of how Semma came to be. Whose idea was it?
I was cooking contemporary Southern Indian food in California for more than a decade. I loved how Chintan and Roni (who were industry friends) were introducing regional Indian cuisine unapologetically in NYC. We happened to casually talk about how NYC didn’t have any restaurant that focused solely on regional Southern Indian cuisine.
Chintan Pandya, chef Vijay Kumar and Roni Mazumdar
We all looked at each other and thought it would be amazing if we could create something together. Then the conversation got intense and I shared my farm-life upbringing in a small village In Tamil Nadu and what we eat in villages etc. Roni and Chintan gave me courage and supported me wholeheartedly in sharing my childhood memories through the food. Hence, Semma was born.
How is Semma different from other Indian restaurants in the US?
Every single day we hear from so many native Indian guests that they feel as if they are eating at their home or grandmas or aunt’s place in India which brings back their nostalgic memories emotionally. I definitely feel like there is a cultural disconnect when you eat at other Indian restaurants here.
Clockwise: Gunpowder Dosa, Dindigul Biryani and Nathai Pirattal
How much of your lived experiences has found its place in the menu?
The menu reflects my childhood memories which includes foraging the snails from my grandparent’s paddy farms, hunting Venison and cooking the meat in the mud pots at the farms, and cooking the goat’s intestines (which is all considered as poor people’s food).
Are there any challenges to presenting regional Indian cuisine to a different audience abroad?
I personally thought that it would be challenging and worried about whether the audience abroad would accept it. The response has been such a pleasant surprise, and it’s heartwarming to see how people appreciate and love the fact that we are true to ourselves and being authentic.
Cocktails at Semma
There is a growing impetus on regional cuisine. Is the focus from global to microlocal headed in the right direction?
Absolutely. As we know India has a lot more food to offer than just butter chicken and tikka masala. We at Unapologetic Foods love how regional Indian cuisine, which has a cultural history of thousands of years, is being recognised. I hope to see a lot more restaurants that focus on regional Indian cuisines in the near future. We would like to continue to do our best to exceed our guest’s expectations and are happy to play a part in introducing heritage Southern Indian cuisine to New Yorkers and the Western world.
