In Lewduh, Shillong’s oldest market, it’s a constant trade with the past

A warren of alleyways — selling everything from spices to second hand clothes to meat to hand-crafted utensils — makes up Shillong’s Iewduh, or Bara Bazaar. A pre-colonial market from the time of Hima Shillong-Nongskeh (the kingdom of Shillong), head to Iewduh to find a mix of people and commodities, steeped in history, colour and emotion.

Updated: November 3, 2019 09:09 IST

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The world Iewduh literally translates to biggest bazaar (‘iew’ means bazaar, ‘duh’ means biggest). However, according to Sweetymon Rynjah, a Shillong-based author, ‘duh’ also means refuge, a second chance — something Iewduh is ready to provide to anyone: the lost, the hungry, the poor. (Express photo: Tora Agarwala)

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In the market, it is common to final local Khasi tribespeople but also migrant communities who have set up shop decades ago. (Express photo: Tora Agarwala)

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For example, MJ Sweets was started thirty years ago by Juggal Kishore Sharma’s (pictured) father a migrant Marwari from Rajasthan. (Express photo: Tora Agarwala)

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In the labyrinth of narrow streets, it is common to find people selling all kinds of products. (Express photo: Tora Agarwala)

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A common sight not just in Iewduh but through Meghalaya: a local ‘teer’ (archery) gambling stall, extremely popular across the state. (Express photo: Tora Agarwala)

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There is an overwhelming presence of women shopkeepers at Iewduh, many who have taken up the reigns from their mothers and grandmothers. (Express photo: Tora Agarwala)

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Sajana Kurbah sells traditionally handcrafted wooden and iron utensils at a shop her mother established 40 years ago. (Express photo: Tora Agarwala)

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The market comes under the direct jurisdiction of the Syiem of Mylliem. Every year, rituals are performed within the market areas where one can even find big monoliths. This is a police station located within the market. (Express photo: Tora Agarwala)