Indore takes its cricket, cricketers and even umpires very seriously

The next morning the local newspapers gave the true picture. The fans were actually urchins from the slums next to the stadium. They had been hired by a local politician for the municipal polls. For a packet of ‘aloo puri’, they would roam around the city wearing the ‘vote for…’ banner. Bucknor was conned into doing the same while taking a lap around the stadium, all the while waving at the thousands who had turned up to watch the nets.

Folklore has it that the endorsement from cricket’s most reliable decision-maker of that era went a long way in deciding the tight electoral contest. Such was Indore’s trust in Bucknor, and cricket. They took his word even for choosing their representative in the municipality.

Over the years, that hasn’t changed. Indore takes its cricket, cricketers, and even umpires, very seriously. It’s the only city that has a city square with a giant replica of the World Cup trophy that India won in 2011 and a larger-than-life statue of Colonel CK Nayudu playing a lazy late cut at the centre of a park named after him.

With history and heritage, would it be fair to restrict the game’s most storied format to just Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai and Bengaluru? Does this over-enthusiastic city that clings to its cricketing legacy like a family heirloom deserve a ruthless snub for future Tests?

***

Sanjay Jagdale, Madhya Pradesh’s Mr Cricket, puts up a strong case for his city. He has been a player, selector and administrator. He has been around. “I was the one who initiated the move that Tests should be played at smaller centres. There was too much cricket at big centres. They have Tests, ODIs, Ranji Trophy, IPL… The paying capacity of a common man is limited. How much cricket are you going to feed the fan at bigger centres. There should be rotation,” he says.

And when the rotation did take place, Indore delivered. In 2016, Holkar Stadium hosted its first ever Test and the fans came in droves. There was a virtual full house on all match days.

Madhya Pradesh Cricket Assocation’s (MPCA) head curator, Samandar Singh Chouhan, talks about the mass inflow from across the state. “People from villages around Indore came here in bus loads. This region doesn’t get quality cricket, so nobody wanted to miss the chance to watch a Test.” Chouhan says the city’s cheap lodging and boarding options make the trip to Indore less stressful for those from the city’s outskirts. “They wouldn’t just take the daily passes and go back to their village. They would stay here for five days. A visit to the city to watch Test cricket, it was a very tempting option.”

READ | Famous dancing cop who directs traffic has a cricket connection

For its second Test, Indore is expecting a sequel. On the road leading to the stadium, a rangoli artist is at work. Over morning poha, Indore’s staple, there is talk about Rohit Sharma’s form in T20 and the return of Virat Kohli. Jagdale says the ticket sales have been brisk. “About 10,000 season passes have been sold and once we start selling the daily tickets there will be more interest,” he says. The 30,000 capacity stadium is quickly filling up. ICC’s marketing men in Dubai, responsible for selling the World Test championship to the cricketing world, might be tempted to take a flight here.

But then there is something about Indore that makes it uniquely different from any other Test venue or B towns across the country. Their love for the game isn’t comparable to say a Chennai or Mumbai. Jagdale tries to explain the mystery of his city’s Test match attraction. “I will not say Indore is cricket knowledgeable as say Chennai or Mumbai but this is a very lively city, Indorians always want to go out and enjoy.”

***

Prakash Purohit, a respected editor and a popular columnist, is best equipped to decipher this intriguing phenomenon. An eager follower of the city’s pop-culture, he has his ear to Indore’s ground. Purohit calls Indore a “utsav priya seher”.

“This is a city where people need something to do all the time. If they have nothing they will just walk to the city’s various food joints to have namkeen or mithai. This is the character of the city. You need to go out every day, it’s an unwritten rule,” he says.

Purohit has hit the nail on the head. The local newspapers have lengthy listing pages. The Page 3 spills over to Page 4, 5 and 6. Last weekend, the city hosted television awards where ticket rates were as high as Rs 25,000. A day before the event, there was a dress rehearsal. Locals say that hundreds turned up to watch minor telly celebrities taking lessons from choreographers. A day after the event, a couple of hangers on are having tea on the footpath outside the venue, Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium. “Stayed up till late, waited 5 hours to get a glimpse of Kapil Sharma,” one says. His friends’ jaw would need wiring, the way it dropped.

An entertaining raconteur; Purohit gives an idea about Indore’s outdoor-addiction by describing a typical weekend. “Go out on a Saturday or Sunday and you will find even the theatres that are showing the biggest flop film are full. You can even go to the worst restaurant possible and you will see a crowd there. In our city, we judge a movie or a restaurant only from Monday. Before that everything is fine because we need an excuse to go out,” he says.

When it comes to cricket the same set of rules apply. “Trust me this is a city of show-offs. There are some serious watchers but most go to the stadium to be seen, either on television or to post pictures on social media. And, of course, to boast about it later.” For several days after an international game at the Holkar Stadium, the city’s various hangouts turn into cricket addas. Locals say that in case one has missed the game, it is better to go into hiding.

With exaggerated tales of match-day excitement, the less fortunate are made to feel like miserable losers. Purohit it seems has missed a few matches at Holkar for he knows the lines by heart. “They make those who weren’t there for the game feel wretched. They would make the most mundane game sound like a thriller. “Kya match hua, kya match tha, itna maaza kiya, dari le ke gaye the, khaana khaya, patte khele”. Playing cards while watching cricket, that’s an Indorian’s ultimate dream.

***

There is another section of this intriguing city that played a big role in increasing the match day foot falls. They are secretive, they have deep pockets, they are the satorias (punters). Indore’s love for betting is as old as the city itself. Back in the day, in the pre-independence era, Indore’s leading businessman Seth Hukum Chand started the speculative trade in commodities. Known as the Cotton King he owned several mills, lived in a sheesh mahal and, some say, even loaned money to the Holkars. But then Indore believes in explaining things through tales, the ones embellished with every narration. This one is about his riches and his rutbaa (status).

READ | India Test Squad for Bangladesh Series 2019: Shahbaz Nadeem left out, Virat Kohli to lead

Once Seth Hukum Chand was travelling in his own private railway carriage and his newspaper flew out of the window. He called the attendant and asked him to stop the train. The Railways employee was a stickler for rules. He told the Seth that the train stops only if something valuable falls off the train. Non-plussed, the Cotton King threw his diamond ring out of the window. The train was stopped and Seth got his newspaper. “As for the diamond ring, people are still searching.” Purohit has the all the punchlines.

The editor says cricket surely attracts a lot of bettors. “This is a city of compulsive gamblers. When Seth Hukum Chand didn’t have anything to bet on he would toss his shoe and bet which side it will fall.”

Many fear the India vs Bangladesh Test might have the same excitement as a shoe toss. But then Indore doesn’t mind. They can be expected to turn up in numbers with their dari and pack of cards.