‘Unseen in decades’: Pune’s century-old eateries go back to basics amid LPG supply crunch

These eateries warn they may soon have to raise prices on their dishes.

Back to coal

The most visible fallout of the crisis is a sudden, widespread return to charcoal and firewood-fired cooking methods that many of these establishments had long retired.

Suhas Udpikar, owner of New Poona Boarding House in Sadashiv Peth, established in 1925 and a landmark of traditional Maharashtrian cuisine, says the switch has been abrupt and painful.

“We have completely switched to firewood and charcoal-powered stoves,” he says. “Our signature dishes in the thali, including Aluchi Patal Bhaji (colocasia leaf curry), which needs slow-cooking, chapati, usal dishes (of sprouted legumes) and several other items are off the menu currently.”

The impact on the iconic thali has been stark. “Chapati has been replaced with puri, and the multi-item thali is now reduced to just puri, a vegetable curry and rice. We have also stopped purchasing milk as well,” says Udpikar.

At Vaidya Uphar Gruha in Budhwar Peth, one of Pune’s oldest surviving eateries, established in 1910, owner Deepak Joshi is navigating a similar situation.

“With no fresh supply of LPG cylinders, we switched to charcoal-powered stoves. Our popular misal is still being served, but batata wada and bhaji have been slashed from the menu as they are gas-intensive,” he says.

Joshi, however, is cautiously hopeful. “Some establishments are now beginning to receive gas supplies. Until the supply streamlines, certain food items will remain off the menu,” he adds.

Starters go, main course survives

The crisis is not limited to vegetarian thali houses. S P Biryani, a famous non-vegetarian institution operating since 1994, has also taken a hit.

“All famous starters, including the most demanded ones like Bombil, surmai, pomfret fry, and chicken lollipop, have been closed for almost three weeks amid the LPG gas supply crunch,” the restaurant’s manager says.

The kitchen has now entirely moved to charcoal-fired cooking, with only the main course surviving, the restaurant’s popular sajuk tupatli biryani and a limited selection of chicken and mutton gravies.

The manager also flags a brewing concern. “Raw material costs have gone up. We may have to increase dish prices if the situation persists for long.”

The oldest eatery watches with worry

Dorabjee and Sons has been relatively insulated from the LPG shock, having always operated on charcoal. But Darius Dorabjee is cautious.

“As we were operating on charcoal from the beginning, we are not much affected by the LPG supply issue. But charcoal prices are going up. In the last two weeks, the price has increased from around Rs 35 per kg to Rs 40,” he says.

He is also watching the increased demand towards charcoal with unease. “Most hotels are switching to charcoal now. I don’t know whether the charcoal supply will remain sustainable and uninterrupted,” he says.

His concern goes well beyond his own kitchen. “The LPG supply crunch has hit the entire hotel industry. Some have slashed their operation timings and menus. These establishments are not just bread and butter for owners; they also create significant employment opportunities. If the LPG supply crunch persists, it can shake the entire ecosystem,” he says.

For now, most eatery owners say they have held the line on prices and don’t want to pass on the burden to loyal patrons. But that restraint has a shelf life.

Several owners acknowledged that they will have no choice but to raise prices if the supply crunch continues much longer. With raw material costs climbing, fuel alternatives becoming more expensive, and menus already stripped, the margin for absorbing further shocks is running thin.