Proposed rule for Everest expeditions may raise costs, but also the bar

Nepal-only pre-ascent climb questioned; Sherpas look forward to better-qualified expeditions

4 min readPuneUpdated: Jul 28, 2026 10:52 PM IST

Proposed rule for Everest expeditions may raise costs, but also the bar

For Indian climbers, these proposed regulations will increase the overall cost of attempting Everest. (Credits: Rishi Bhandari from Nepal)

Nepal’s proposed eligibility criteria for Everest climbing permits is likely to increase the cost of the expedition for aspiring mountaineers preparing for the world’s highest peak. As per the draft bill, Everest aspirants would have to first summit a 7,000-metre peak in Nepal before applying for a permit.

For Indian climbers, these proposed regulations will increase the overall cost of attempting Everest. Since the qualifying 7,000-meter peak must be climbed in Nepal, climbers will have to undertake an additional expedition before applying for an Everest permit. “This is likely to increase the total cost by approximately Rs 5–6 lakh, making an Everest expedition significantly more expensive,” Umesh Zirpe, Pune based veteran mountaineer, said.

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He also questioned the eligibility criteria. “It is difficult to understand why climbers who have already successfully climbed a 7,000-metre or higher peak outside would not be considered eligible,” Zirpe told The Indian Express. “Valuable high-altitude mountaineering experience should be recognised regardless of where it was gained. However on a positive note, Zirpe explained that this condition may discourage inexperienced climbers from attempting Everest, leading to a better-prepared pool of mountaineers.”

When contacted in Nepal, Rishi Bhandari, General Secretary of Expedition Operators Association who has managed treks, peak-climbing and several 8000-meter peak expeditions said that there were 52 such operators in Nepal who effectively guided climbers to the much sought after peak. “This year we had as many as 470 climbers as against 404 last year.

Traffic jams near the final section of the climb have become a serious concern. (Credits: Rishi Bhandari from Nepal)

This is a good move towards better-prepared expeditions and reducing accidents. It was unfortunate that there were three deaths this year and guides worked hard to save them,” Bhandari, who is also the Managing Director of Satori Adventures said. According to Angbabu Sherpa, who has his own Peak Promotion mountaineering agency, said that there are risks of climbing Everest.

“For a batch of say 10 climbers we ensure that ten Sherpas accompany them. The Sherpas are certified local guides and climbers cannot afford to have a casual approach as strict preparation is required,” he added.

Zirpe also pointed out that simply summiting a 7,000-meter peak does not necessarily mean that a climber has acquired the experience, judgment or technical competence required for a safe Everest ascent. “Greater emphasis should be placed on mountaineering skills, technical training, self-sufficiency at high altitude and prior experience in challenging alpine conditions, rather than relying solely on the altitude of a previous climb,” he added.

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Senior member of the Pune based Giripremi mountaineering club and leader of 8 successful 8000er expeditions said their club has produced 18 Mount Everest summiteers. “For anyone aspiring to climb Mount Everest, completing basic and advanced mountaineering training is highly desirable,” he said.

Increasing overcrowding

Today, the greatest challenge on Everest is no longer just the mountain or the weather. An even bigger danger is the increasing overcrowding. Traffic jams near the final section of the climb have become a serious concern. Climbers are often forced to wait for hours in the Death Zone under extremely hostile conditions and unfortunately, several fatalities have occurred because of these delays.

To enhance safety, greater emphasis should be placed on technical skills, self-reliance, sound judgment, and comprehensive mountaineering experience, along with broader measures such as limiting the number of permits, rather than relying solely on prior altitude experience, mountaineers said.

Anuradha Mascarenhas

Anuradha Mascarenhas is a Senior Editor at The Indian Express, based in Pune. With a career spanning three decades, she is one of the most respected voices in Indian journalism regarding healthcare, science and environment and research developments. She also takes a keen interest in covering women's issues . Professional Background Education: A gold medalist in Communication and Journalism from Savitribai Phule Pune University and a Master’s degree in Literature. Author: She authored the biography At The Wheel Of Research, which chronicles the life and work of Dr. Soumya Swaminathan, the former Chief Scientist at the WHO. Key Focus: She combines scientific accuracy with storytelling, translating complex medical research into compelling public and human-interest narratives. Awards and Recognition Anuradha has won several awards including the Press Council of India's national award for excellence in journalism under the gender based reporting category in 2019 and the Laadli Media award (gender sensitivity -2024). A recipient of the Lokmat journalism award (gender category-2022), she was also shortlisted for the RedInk awards for excellence in journalism-2021. Her debut book At The Wheel Of Research, an exclusive biography of Dr Soumya Swaminathan the inaugural chief scientist of World Health Organisation was also nominated in the Popular Choice Category of JK Paper AUTHER awards. She has also secured competitive fellowships including the Laadli Media Fellowship (2022), the Survivors Against TB – New Research in TB Media Fellowship (2023) and is part of the prestigious 2025 India Cohort of the WomenLift Health Leadership Journey.” Recent Notable Articles (Late 2025) 1. Cancer & Specialized Medical Care "Tata Memorial finds way to kill drug-resistant cancer cells" (Nov 26, 2025): Reporting on a breakthrough for triple-negative breast cancer, one of the most aggressive forms of the disease. Discipline, diet and purpose; How a 97-year-old professor defies ageing'' (Nov 15, 2025) Report about Prof Gururaj Mutalik, the first Head of Department at Pune's B J Government Medical College who at 97 credits his longevity to healthy habits and a strong sense of purpose. 2. Environmental Health (The "Breathless Pune" Series) Long-term exposure even to 'moderate' air leads to chronic heart, lung, kidney issues" (Nov 26, 2025): Part of an investigative series highlighting that even "safe" pollution levels are damaging to vital organs. "For every 10 µg/m3 increase in PM2.5 level, there was 6-8% jump in medicine sales" (Nov 23, 2025): Using commercial data to prove the direct link between air quality and respiratory illnesses in Pune. 3. Lifestyle & Wellness News "They didn't let cancer, diabetes and heart disease stop them from travelling" (Dec 22, 2025): A collaborative piece featuring survivors who share practical tips for traveling with chronic conditions. At 17, his BP shot up to 200/120 mmHG; Lancet study flags why child and teen hypertension doubled between 2000 and 2020'' (Nov 12,2025)--A report that focusses on 17-year-old-boy's hypertensive crisis and reflects the rising global trend of high blood pressure among children and adolescents. 4. Scientific Recognition & Infrastructure For promoting sci-comm, gender diversity: IUCAA woman prof highlighted in Nature" (Nov 25, 2025): Covering the global recognition of Indian women scientists in gender studies and physics. Pune researchers find a spiral galaxy like the Milky Way from early universe'' (December 3, 2025)- A report on how Indian researchers discovered a massive galaxy that existed when the universe was just 1.5 billion years old , one of the earliest to have been observed so far. Signature Beat: Health, Science & Women in Leadership Anuradha is known for her COVID-19 reportage, where she was one of the first journalists to provide detailed insights into the Covishield and Covaxin trials. She has a dedicated interest in gender diversity in health and science, often profiling women researchers who are breaking the "leaky pipeline" in STEM fields. Her writing style is scrupulous, often featuring interviews with top-tier scientists and health experts from various institutions. ... Read More

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