Opinion Between Shein and Sanganer, fashion’s massive pollution problem
The environmental crisis in the epicentre of India’s hand-block printing industry speaks to the larger sustainability challenges of the country's fashion industry
If we are to create a more sustainable and ethical fashion industry, we must begin by acknowledging the hidden costs and taking responsibility for the impact our consumption has on the world. (Photo credit: Freepik) As India prepares to host Bharat Tex 2025, the country’s largest textile event, this week, there has been another major development that could reshape the country’s fashion landscape —the re-entry of Chinese fashion behemoth Shein through a partnership with Reliance Retail. Bharat Tex 2025 aims to showcase the entire textile value chain, highlighting organic textiles, recycled materials, and sustainable manufacturing practices. It aligns with global trends that push for a more responsible fashion industry, with brands eager to project a greener image. On the other hand is Shein, which has built its empire on low-cost, mass-produced garments, a business model often criticised for its unsustainable sourcing and production practices. Its return to India signals a resurgence of ultra-fast fashion, which thrives on cheap labour and rapid turnover of clothing — practices that have long contributed to environmental degradation, through massive waste generation.
The February 2024 Rajya Sabha discussions on textile waste acknowledged the rising environmental and economic concerns of India’s textile industry, but effective action remains elusive. But if there is any seriousness about making India’s fashion industry more sustainable, it must go beyond global conferences and branding exercises. The case of Sanganer, a small town on the outskirts of Jaipur, is an illustration of why this is an issue that requires urgent action.
Sanganer is widely recognised as the epicentre of India’s hand-block printing industry. The textiles it produces, adorned with vibrant, intricate designs, have earned a global reputation and made it a key player in the international fashion market. However, beneath the colourful fabrics and dazzling prints, a darker and more alarming reality has begun to emerge. Sanganer’s booming textile industry, once a symbol of craftsmanship and tradition, is now at the heart of an environmental and health crisis that is threatening the region’s future.
Every day, the textile industry in Sanganer prints a staggering volume of fabric that drives much of Jaipur’s economic engine. This massive production comes at a significant cost — water. Sanganer’s groundwater is laden with high concentrations of heavy metals like arsenic and mercury — byproducts of the textile dyeing process — as well as acids, salts, and bleaching agents. The groundwater contamination is so severe that even simple tasks, such as matching fabric colours to buyers’ specifications, have become impossible, as the high levels of Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) render the water unsuitable for dyeing. This issue has become a crisis that extends beyond the environmental impact. The local population, particularly the textile workers, is bearing the brunt of the toxic pollution, with eczema, asthma, chronic bronchitis, and even bladder cancer becoming alarmingly common. Sanganer’s situation is not unique. Other textile hubs like Tirupur and Panipat too have faced — and continue to face — similar challenges.
The issue of pollution in Sanganer is intertwined with the larger global fashion supply chain. The demand for cheap, mass-produced textiles has driven local manufacturers to prioritise speed and cost-cutting measures over environmental and health concerns. No single initiative can undo the damage that has been done over decades. A more sustainable solution requires a comprehensive approach that involves all stakeholders—the government, textile manufacturers, workers, and consumers. The textile industry must move beyond the current model of fast fashion, which values speed and profit over environmental and human health. The government must take a more active role in regulating the textile industry’s environmental impact, implementing stricter pollution control measures, and ensuring that workers are provided with the necessary protections and healthcare. Consumers, too, have a role to play. The demand for sustainable fashion, with an emphasis on ethical sourcing and production practices, is growing, and it is time for the fashion industry to prioritise long-term environmental and social responsibility over short-term gains.
The shift to sustainability, however, cannot be achieved without significant investment in new technologies and infrastructure. The future of Sanganer, and other such production centres, depends on finding alternatives to the toxic practices that have dominated the textile industry for so long. If we are to create a more sustainable and ethical fashion industry, we must begin by acknowledging the hidden costs and taking responsibility for the impact our consumption has on the world.
The writer is assistant professor of design, IILM, Gurgaon
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