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Veni,Vidi,Vici

The Italian restaurant ,La Tagliatella,makes a triumphal,delicious entry into India.

Written by Shantanu David |
March 8, 2013 3:52:17 am

The Italian restaurant ,La Tagliatella,makes a triumphal,delicious entry into India.

There is a snob lurking inside each of us. In some,it is hidden deep in the depths of their soul,in others,it’s right under the skin. This snob has some definite rules — malls are devoid of “quality” restaurants,and restaurant chains,no matter how celebrated,can never match up to a standalone establishment. This self-same snob has seldom enjoyed being more wrong.

While our first few paragraphs are usually devoted to the décor,ambience and music of the restaurant being reviewed,this time we must beg off in the interest of brevity. Suffice to say La Tagliatella is a large space in warm shades of red and gold. Now to the important stuff.

Given that we plan to feast farinaceously for our main course,we start with a light salad. Light,we soon realise,can be a subjective term. The Insalata Tagliatella comprises (we quote verbatim) mixed salad leaves,turkey ham,king prawns,prawns,crab sticks,sweet corn,olives cherry tomato,grated carrots,boiled egg and artichokes. The salad menu has a choice of dressings and,true to our carnivorous leanings,we go with the anchovies and mustard dressing. When it appears,it resembles not so much a salad as a rainforest on a platter. In this variegated,prismatic thicket of frisee,radichhio,romaine and a myriad other leaves,lurks a formidable range of fauna. Each forkful comprises a motley of fresh greens and proteins,all cohesively bound together by sharp,tangy dressing. This course is rather a meal in itself.

The bounty of choice in pasta (there are 20 kinds of pasta and 16 types of sauces. Computing the combinations is beyond our mien) bewilders us and we are happy to be guided by the hand in choosing our main course. Specially since the pizza is making eyes at us.

On hearing of our penchant for fungi,we are recommended rotondo pasta in a carbonara sauce. A stuffed pasta,the rotondo has a mushroom filling studded with bits of black truffle while the carbonara sauce is made of turkey bacon (a nice twist) and cream.

The pasta,that arrives in a plain white bowl sans any garnish,is — to put it simply — poetry wrapped in cream sauce. With its simple notes of mushroom,cheese and cream,embellished with the far more decadent chords of the truffle,the dish plays out an apreggio on our palate. Indeed we don’t know whether the tears streaming down our eyes are a reaction to the powerful earthiness of the dish or an ode the sheer virtuosity gone into making it.

After our blatant decadence and our need for a pick-me-up after all that food,we opt for a simple tiramisu,despite the alternatives the separate dessert menu offers. While mercifully small as compared to its savoury predecessors,the dessert still packs quite a punch. There’s a whole lot of flavour in a small bowl,and it helps us drag ourselves to our feet.

But we will return,if nothing but for “pizza mind”.

Meal for two: Rs 3,000 (including taxes,excluding alcohol)

Address: Ambience Mall,Vasant Kunj

Contact: 40870747

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