Grape Gripe
Does the Indian oenophile have access to the real wine experience?
Does the Indian oenophile have access to the real wine experience?
In the film Khosla ka Ghosla,written by the brilliant Jaideep Sahni,there is a moment when Anupam Kher advises his son to hold the drink during a father son whisky session. I chat with Jaideep about that scene hes the best person to turn to for delightful insights into the mind of Indias urban middle class and he says,Remember when mothers and nannies used to ask Colgate kiya? before these times of multiple toothpaste brands? Colgate was a synonym for brushing ones teeth,much like whisky was for alcohol.
In India,whisky has been the synonym for alcohol for the longest time,but a recent visit to the Sunday brunch at 361 at The Oberoi,Gurgaon,had me questioning our tipple habits,and our move towards a diverse range of alcohol,including wine. With its impressive pouring list of 10 champagnes for an all-inclusive brunch,the menu boasted of Bruts and Roses from the best champagne makers in the business. And it made me ask when we had moved from all-you-can-eat buffets to choose-your-own-champagne brunches. The champagne brunch with only one pouring brand seems a dining antiquity. Have our wine tastes evolved,or are we still a nascent wine drinking population,more concerned with the social statement wine drinking makes than the sensory one?
Roshan Dutt,a television producer and globe-trotter,became a wine enthusiast because he didnt quite take to hard liquor in his younger days. We are sitting at The Dome,the rooftop bar at the Intercontinental on Marine Drive. It has,in my opinion,the best sundowner experience in Mumbai and were there to catch the last rays of the sun before it dips into the horizon. His love for wine is of interest to me for a couple of reasons: first,he came of age much around the same time drinking wine did in India. Secondly,wine was initially pushed as a predominantly female tipple,so for a young man who embarks on drinking with a certain peer consciousness,this was an unusual choice. Also,I am curious to find out how he manages to be a serious wine drinker in a country which makes it as difficult as possible to do that.
It all started with port,he says. The flavour just worked for him,before his tastes moved towards dry whites. He explains that his palate is very different,he consumes absolutely no spices or chillies an early childhood memory is that of holding a piece of tandoori chicken under a running tap to wash it clean of its flavours. Its given him a palate that may be best described as untainted. And thats what prompts him to go beyond the strictures of winespeak and experience the wine for himself. Most of us are curtailed by the tasting notes that accompany wines or the over intellectualisation of what is mostly a sensual experience; feeling diminished if we dont have the same reaction as the one expected of us. I have personally nodded along to tasting strawberries with a hint of hay when all I have wanted to do was chug. But hang on,thats not a wine term! Smack! Frankly,at most wine tastings its always best to nod along,that being the only way to enjoy the wine.
But enjoying wine comes at a price: its no secret that the heavy import duties have ensured that what might be considered table wine in other countries is almost premier cru in India. Maybe I exaggerate,but you get the drift. Then there are the practicalities associated with the transport and storage of wine. Roshan recalls a visit to one of the bettser wine shops in Mumbai only to find bottles of wine stowed under the glare of halogen lamps; the wine was spoilt. At home he has invested in a wine and bottle chiller. Since most of us dont have the luxury of a cellar,he recommends storing wine in the closet amidst clothes especially if you use air conditioning the dry,cool conditions are ideal. And if youre looking for an out of home experience,the best wine destination,he says,is Vetro at The Oberoi,Mumbai. But,I argue,not many people can afford that experience. What if you wanted to experience good wine on a budget and not in your home from bottles squirreled away into closets? Then dont drink wine,he says simply. Its the only time he sounds almost like a snob,only he isnt being one. For the truth is,the wine experience we deserve is still out of reach for most of us. And we remain obliged to respond to red or white. n
Advaita Kala is an author and has worked in restaurants and kitchens in India and abroad.
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