Gourmands Delight
Brunch is a breakfast that begins with a cocktail,is how William Grimes defined it in an article a decade or so ago.
Brunch is a breakfast that begins with a cocktail,is how William Grimes defined it in an article a decade or so ago.
Brunch is a breakfast that begins with a cocktail,is how William Grimes defined it in an article a decade or so ago. Since then Grimes has moved on; he is a former magazine writer,culture reporter,theatre columnist,restaurant critic,book reviewer and a current obituary writer for The New York Times Wikipedia. A most interesting and revealing transition. However,a better definition for the urban connoisseurs favorite portmanteau is yet to be presented. The term brunch is credited to another journalist Guy Beringer who first used it in his article Brunch A Plea in 1895. More than a century later we are still talking about brunch.
In India,the brunch had more discreet beginnings and for the longest time we were calling it the buffet. The difference was too subtle one being a meal; the other a service style. The turn of the millennium brought with it the Sunday brunch,in all its decadent glory. A meal experience that was to set itself apart from the buffet and the best way to do that was to introduce the element of free pour alcohol. In the early days,the favoured tipple was Indian sparkling wine. Those were more innocent times. In the last decade or so the whole game has changed.
There are quite a few reasons for the luxe takeover of buffets. Most importantly,the Indian diner has evolved. Gone are the days when the dish-count passed for luxury,now people are more interested in whats in them. The well-travelled Indian diner has always been demanding; he is now more discerning. The competition for the luxury brunch is intense,with guerilla teams of professionals dining at restaurants belonging to their competition set and analysing every minute detail.
In my opinion,the best Sunday brunch in the country is the one at The Oberoi,Gurgaon. Not only is the champagne pouring list extensive but the attention to detail and service is impeccable. Walking into their restaurant 361 is like stepping on to an automated walkway. You glide past the bar and if you wish,pause for a glass of bubbly. The restaurant is flush with natural light and the bay windows permit an arresting view of the aquamarine water body. The detailing is impeccable from the marble,to the crisp table runners,unblemished silverware the result of a carefully monitored handling process. The bud vase with a floral arrangement trimmed to the right height is pleasant but never an obstruction. The cover layout is simple and the lack of fuss is almost severe,but in its understatement is a clear message: extravagance is to be found elsewhere.
The buffet stroll is an integral aspect of any Sunday brunch,it must entice but it should also arrest ones attention. At 361,Chef Hu is working on hand-pulled noodles,in front of him are two rows of bowls with soup dippings. He sprinkles some flour on the marble work table and rolls a python-like length of dough. He then pulls the two ends together like he means to work it into a neck tie. Only he sets it down on the work table and rolls it back and forth using the base of his palms. With an expertise that only 15 years can ensure,the dough readily parts into strings as he repeats the same action. It is reminiscent of a musician playing a stringed instrument. You lean in to hear the music and instead,hear the crackle of the apple and cider woodfired oven that bakes the pizzas and heats the focaccias in mini casserole dishes.
There is a determined effort to steer clear of the extravagance that is so familiar at other five star brunches. Is this chic minimalism the new definition of luxury? At 361,the sensibility veers to the rustic. The flatware is plain white porcelain and the main course is served in homely pans and casseroles. The cold section has some exotic firsts and also some regulars mozzarella and cheese. The dessert buffet has no tags as a chef is there to answer every query. The after meal coffee is served to you on a salver it’s placed right in front of you,the coffee pressed and poured while you watch. Do they ever let you do anything? Your napkin slips to the ground,the server scoops it up and replaces it with another that is unfurled with the skill of a conjurer.
You think this is decadent,only to look around and note that the perfect symmetry of the tables remain. The conversations continue in hushed tones,the food is in discreet portions and glasses are cleared before others are placed. It is all to measure,in proportion to what the mind and the body can permit. It is never overdone. And that is what makes it luxurious without being decadent.
Advaita Kala is an author and has worked in restaurants and kitchens in India and abroad
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