
KOTTAYAM, DEC 30: White-washed bamboo barricades with fluttering saffron-green flags lead you to Kumarakom from Kottayam where the country’s chief executive began his tryst with greenery three days ago. Enveloped in a thick blanket of security, Prime Minister A B Vajpayee is listening to the wind and lapping wavelets, watching simmering backwaters and eating Kerala seafood.
“Is he writing poetry?” Is the million-dollar question. But mum’ is the word for all persons allowed entry into the Taj Garden Retreat, Kumarakom, 13 km from here. No one is ready to comment. “But he wrote something on the notebook this afternoon during the boating,” an official said. He also keenly listened to a description of the backwaters and the flora around.
The Prime Minister and entourage serenaded the coast for more than four hours on a day when sun came out after two days of clouds, rain and damp wind. The huge houseboat Vaikundam’ circled the Pathiramanal island and lay anchored for sometime even as a battery of photojournalists shot at will on their first chance to freeze-frame the PM. Media had been denied entry to the retreat in view of Lashkar Toiba threat that also saw an unprecedented security machinery being set up in and around the retreat.
But for the villagers it’s celebration time; the icing on the celebration being that they got their raod repaired. there are new transformers giving them power. “But it’s the road,” says a happy Kumarakom resident. “It was the worst road in Kottayam. They’ve repaired it for the timebeing. Thanks to Vajpayee theere are lot of changes,” he smiles.
Old electric posts were replaced with new concrete poles. There are thousands of policemen on the raod, jeeps carrying commandos, Naval marines and Army’s Air Defence Artillery speed along the road inviting awesome looks from the people of a somnolent land who are yet to come to grips with the high-voltage hype. Two local schools have been converted into police camps where more than 1500 cops are stacked in inhuman surroundings.
But there is smile on the face of every local vendor. Sreedharan runs a small shop near the Cheeppunkal bridge, some 50 metres from the Taj Retreat. “The business has doubled. My daily collection was around Rs 500. Now it’s much more,” he says. His shop is the only resort for the policmen on duty and packs of scribes who wait outside the complex. The local busshelter has become Kumarakom Press Club.
“Will we be allowed inside today?” is the unanswered question on every face. “May be for a few minutes like yesterday. And that too only the photographers.” Whenever an SPG personnel comes out, they jump up in anticipation. He takes down the names and asks to wait. Then you’re allowed in to undergo several rounds of screening. But the main hurdle is the over-enthusiasm of the local police, who consider themselves the last line of defence.
“No questions to the PM,” a constable orders after taking the 50th look to ensure that the face on the identity card is the same that is pathetically standing before him. Inside Hariharan begins his Bhajans to give a religous ambience to the dusk. He sings a patriotic song to make Vajpayee more happy before the Prime Minister returns to his library loaded with books on Kerala.
There is no fixed routine for the PM. If the day is bright and sunny he reads the newspapers by the poolside. Then proceeds to his breakfast comprising fresh juice, dosa, idly and other Kerala items. He also takes medicinal bath and massage twice a day. A mixture of Kerala and North Indian dishes form lunch and dinner.
The Taj group is also organising cultural events to showcase Kerala grandeur to Vajpayee. Artistes are being flown in from various parts. Each arrangement is being co-ordinated by chief operating officer (Kerala) Praveen Nair.
Talat Azeeez will perform on the new year eve. Though several Kerala artforms were listed, they all had to be cancelled due to security reasons. “A security overkill?” “Not at all. It’s becasue of the changed environs. This, afterall is the Prime Minister’s Office.”
But for the avergae villager of Kumarakom it’s the place where some minister is staying. And some of them do stray in to seek favours. Ambujakshy came yesterday with her electoral card to narrate her plight. She is homeless and her son is bedridden. But her woes only echoed on the security stone-wall and she returned into her pool of sorrow.
Same will be the case with other Kumarakomiites also. They all will return to their life-as-usual with a lot of memories about the VVIP visit that will become part of the local lore to be passed on to future generations. But for the tourism mandarins it is time to cash in on the visit. From an obscure land somewhere in Kuttanad, Kumarakom has become a household name and a tourist destination.


