Like the tenuous light from a flickering candle,Valentino’s spring-summer 2010 ready-to-wear collection of nude tulle and antique lace was all shadows and transparency.
Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli,who took over from Valentino’s successor less than a year after the maestro’s retirement in early 2008,continued Tuesday to sharpen their own vision of the Valentino woman.
“She’s kind of a delicate,romantic contemporary fairy princess who’s walking in this digital enchanted garden,wearing blossoms,with this sense of lightness … but also with the darkness,” Piccioli told reporters in a backstage interview after the show.
He said the aim was to infuse looks built out of the most delicate of fabrics – sheer mesh,lace and featherweight chiffon – with a sense of darkness and mystery.
The cocktail dresses were a delicate swirl of lace and stiff,oversized ruffles in the front,with nude backs and short pouffy skirts. Standouts included a jacket in translucent silk covered with silken rosebuds and a jumpsuit in sheer black silk.
All Valentino’s trademark elements were there – the oversized bows,the swirling roses – except for the color red,which has become all but synonymous with the label. Chiuri and Piccioli worked in a reduced palette of black,nude,gray and dusty pink,as they did with the label’s fall-winter 2010 haute couture collection in July.
The shoes were an engineering feat,designed by British hatmaker Philip Treacy. Fans of stiff black lace swept upward from the vertiginous heels like sugar crystals.