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This is an archive article published on March 29, 2023

Ramadan celebrations at the heart of Kolkata in Nakhoda Masjid, the city’s largest mosque

The mosque, nearing a centennial, freezes time with its exquisite architecture and rich history.

nakhoda masjid, mosque, nakhoda mosque, ramadan, ramzan, namaaz, festival, festivity, kolkata, india, indian expressNakhoda Masid is the largest mosque in Kolkata, and a prime tourist destination in the city. (Express Photo by Shashi Ghosh)

Come the month of Ramadan, and almost all the streets in the heart of Kolkata lead to the brick red-coloured building with mammoth domes and minartes. Even though it is nestled at the junction of Zakaria Street and Rabindra Sarani, arguably among the busiest roads of the city, the age-old Nakhoda Masjid never fails to bring time to a halt the moment you step inside.

Built in 1926 by Kutchi Memons, the Nakhoda Masid is the largest mosque in Kolkata, and a prime tourist destination in the city. The mosque can accommodate up to 10,000 devotees at the same time for them to perform their prayer, ‘Namaaz’.

nakhoda masjid, mosque, nakhoda mosque, ramadan, ramzan, namaaz, festival, festivity, kolkata, india, indian express The Nakhoda Masjid can accommodate up to 10,000 devotees at the same time for them to perform ‘Namaaz’. (Express Photo by Shashi Ghosh)

In 2019, the mosque introduced provisions, including separate entries, washrooms and special halls, for Muslim women to offer ‘Namaaz’ on the mosque’s premises throughout the year.

The mosque’s architecture is believed to be inspired by the structure of Akbar’s tomb at Sikandra, which is a work of exquisite Indo-Saracenic architecture. The entrance of the mosque is unmissably similar with the Buland Darwaza at Fatehpur Sikri.

nakhoda masjid, mosque, nakhoda mosque, ramadan, ramzan, namaaz, festival, festivity, kolkata, india, indian express The entrance of the mosque has a striking similarity with the Buland Darwaza at Fatehpur Sikri. (Express Photo by Shashi Ghosh)

At the epicentre of the mosque lies three domes and two minartes. The 150-feet minarets, however, are more than ornaments of extending the architectural charm of the building; the mosque lets the Muslim devotees know whether the moon of Eid can be seen or not by lighting the top of the minarets. The entire mosque comes to life during the holy month of Ramadan when it is decked up in festive lights.

nakhoda masjid, mosque, nakhoda mosque, ramadan, ramzan, namaaz, festival, festivity, kolkata, india, indian express The mosque lets the Muslim devotees know whether the moon of Eid can be seen or not by lighting the top of the minarets. (Express Photo by Shashi Ghosh)

But, is the significance of Nakhoda Masjid in Kolkata’s Ramadan celebrations limited to the architectural marvel of the mosque? For a city and its people known for their gastronomical affairs, no festival is complete without satiating the taste buds. The humongous mosque overlooks the bustling Zakaria Street, which in the month of Ramadan turns into a paradise for food lovers.

nakhoda masjid, mosque, nakhoda mosque, ramadan, ramzan, namaaz, festival, festivity, kolkata, india, indian express The mosque overlooks Zakaria Street, which offers a myriad of delicacies during the month of Ramadan. (Express Photo by Shashi Ghosh)

Starting from the shops and stalls set up under the festive ‘shamianas’ to the Lilliputian shacks and food joints in the adjoining serpentine alleyways, the air of the neighbourhood is filled with the aroma of kebabs, haleem, biryani and delectable desserts. At the break of dusk, these streets and alleys spring to life as the Muslim devotees break their fasts.

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The revels are not limited to any religion. People from varied religious sects and walks of life venture these shops and taste the Ramadan special delicacies. It is not uncommon to spot tourists from other nations in the crowd of visitors as they click pictures, try out the myriad of foods available, and become a part of the festivity. And that is what makes Ramadan in the ‘City of Joy’ a mark of cultural unity.

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