‘I can’t get enough of it’: Decoding the science behind Kriti Sanon’s favourite new skincare active

Let’s hear it from the experts

Dr Rupika Singh, MBBS, MD, Dermatologist and Founder of Akiya Aesthetics, told indianexpress.com that exosomes are basically the tiny messengers that are released by the body’s cells. “Just think of them as microscopic delivery trucks that deliver information from cell to cell. They consist of proteins, lipids and genetic material that assist in communication, repair and regeneration,” she said.

“In dermatology and regenerative medicine, exosomes derived from stem cells are especially interesting because they can stimulate healing, calm inflammation, and support collagen formation. But in skincare, these exosomes are now being formulated into serums, moisturisers, and post-treatment products (like after microneedling or laser) to boost skin repair and rejuvenation,” explained Dr Singh.

The buzz around exosomes is not without reason, said Dr Geeta Grewal, a cosmetologist and founder of 9Muses Wellness Clinic. Early studies suggest that exosomes can:

• Promote regeneration and repair by encouraging skin cells to produce more collagen and elastin.
• Soothe inflammation and redness, making them great for post-procedure recovery.
• Speed up healing, especially after treatments that cause micro-injuries, such as laser or microneedling.
• Improve skin texture and firmness over time by enhancing cellular communication.
• Strengthen the skin barrier and improve hydration levels.

However — and this is a big one — most of the strong evidence so far comes from lab or small-scale studies. Dr Grewal noted that large human clinical trials remain limited. That means while exosomes are promising, and we are still in the early days of fully understanding how effective (and safe) they are when applied topically.

What are exosomes? (Source: Freepik)

However, not all exosome products are created equal. “Since exosomes are biological materials, their source and purity are crucial. If derived from human or stem cells, they must be carefully purified and tested for contamination. Regulators like the FDA haven’t yet approved exosome products for cosmetic use, and in some countries (like the UK), certain human-cell-derived exosome therapies have even been banned due to safety concerns,” elaborated Dr Grewal.

So, before jumping on the trend, it’s worth checking how transparent a brand is about where their exosomes come from, how they’re processed, and whether they’ve been safety-tested.

Points to keep in mind:

Both experts shared a list of suggestions to help you get the best out of your exosome-infused skincare:

• Do a patch test first. Even though exosomes are generally gentle, their bioactive nature means sensitivity is possible. Test behind your ear or jawline for 24–48 hours before full use.
• Start gradually. After using it a few times a week, monitor how your skin responds.
• Choose credible brands. Look for transparency in sourcing and third-party safety testing.
• Pair wisely. Combine exosome products with gentle hydrators, such as hyaluronic acid or ceramides, not with strong actives like retinoids or exfoliating acids.
• Protect with SPF. Regeneration and repair work best when skin is shielded from sun damage.
• Store properly. Avoid heat and direct sunlight — exosomes can lose their activity if not stored correctly.
• Consult your dermatologist if you’re planning to use it after a cosmetic procedure or have reactive skin.

DISCLAIMER: This article is based on information from the public domain and/or the experts we spoke to. Always consult your health practitioner before starting any routine.