‘No substitute for New York’: Why chef Vikas Khanna never opened Bungalow, his flagship, in India

His culinary artistry is influenced by the hyphenation of Indian cuisine with relatively popular and celebrated cuisines. “People would tell us, ‘When you serve, it’s your duty because you were born to serve the Western world. I had to change that narrative. From being called a ‘third-world cockroach’ to everything else I’ve experienced, the challenges have only made me more resilient to globalise Indian food.” This is where it all started. One vision, one dream, and a heart full of hope.

After completing his bachelor’s in hotel management from Manipal Academy of Higher Education, Karnataka, he had a successful stint at some of the most prestigious hotels, from Taj to Leela. But he always envisioned his career path beyond the Indian kitchen.

Enter 2010, and everything changed. He moved to New York to pursue his inner calling and show the world what Indian cuisine was capable of. From working at small restaurants to appearing as an Indian-cuisine consultant on Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares, Khanna’s journey was a series of breakthroughs. His appearance on the show became a doorway for many Indians to enter American kitchens and hearts.

Khanna’s years of toil were finally translating into something perhaps no Indian chef had experienced before. His journey as a working chef at Junoon, a well-known Indian restaurant that he reportedly also helped set up, made him a global celebrity. His culinary expertise earned the restaurant the distinguished Michelin star shortly after its opening, establishing him as one of the very first Indian chefs to achieve this international acknowledgement.

Chef Vikas Khanna outside Bungalow, New York (Photo: vikaskhannagroup/Instagram)

Then came Bungalow into the picture. Opening its doors in 2024, the restaurant is more than a physical space for Khanna. It’s an ode to his sister Radhika Khanna, who passed away in 2022. “With Bungalow, I live her dream. I keep her alive through my work.”

From what he likes to call an establishment “born out of pain”, today Bungalow is making strides. The New York-based restaurant has become a global phenomenon, popularising Indian cuisine like never before. Its dahi kebab, pineapple curry, and anarkali chicken are highly recommended. Not to forget, these popular dishes have also won the highly acclaimed three-star rating from The New York Times, a milestone achievement for any Indian restaurant in nearly 25 years.

But is it just food that makes it stand out from the rest? For Jeff Bezos, Bungalow is “a place of pilgrimage”. “He said people don’t simply visit the restaurant; they make a pilgrimage to it because it brings back the feeling of home they left behind. That was an incredibly meaningful compliment,” says Khanna.

Divine intervention

Speaking from US on a late Friday evening, Khanna excitedly panned his camera, showing Bungalow’s achaar counter. He went on to explain his 4 am ritual, from decorating the restaurant’s entrance with flowers to offering a prayer to the Tulsi plant at his doorstep.

For him, Bungalow is not a business transaction, but a temple where he sows the seeds of warmth and inclusivity. It’s in these small yet harmonising elements that Indians living abroad find a home away from home. “That’s our Table of Festivals,” says Khanna, showcasing the multiple Indian elements that add up to the cultural aesthetics of Bungalow.
A quick look at his Instagram will validate Khanna’s tribute to his Indian roots. From gifting a Ganpati and gajra to celebrating Carnatic coffee, Bungalow’s social media presence is a vibrant reflection of India.

“If you look closely, you’ll see that the restaurant isn’t just about food; it’s almost like a divine intervention. We wanted to go deep into India’s cultural values, ancestral homes, and the spirit of hospitality. You can spend millions on gold, extravagant décor, and dazzling lights, but nothing compares to the comfort of your grandmother’s home. That’s the feeling we wanted to recreate,” he says.

The women

Khanna owes his success to his mother, sister, and beeji. After being born as a child with a condition that made walking and running extremely difficult for him, it was his mother’s “never give up” approach that kept him going.

“I was incredibly fortunate to be born to a woman who was far ahead of her time in the way she thought. She believed everyone should be independent—men, women, everyone. Everyone should know how to cook, clean, and take care of themselves. But above everything else, she believed in commitment. She would always say that the one kind of people she couldn’t stand were those who weren’t committed to their work.”

Then there is beeji, who taught him the nuances of business. His biggest takeaway happened when Hum Aapke Hai Koun released. “The movie became a unifying force, a moment that every generation wants to share with their parents and grandparents. It’s a celebration of our heritage and the joy of being together as a family.” And beeji cashed in on the movie’s larger message so beautifully, recalls Khanna.

She taught him the power of storytelling and the “economics behind it”. He carries forward the same values inculcated by his grandmother even at Bungalow. In his words, “Today, getting a table at Bungalow is almost as difficult as winning the lottery in New York. Why? Because we didn’t just create a restaurant, we told people a story about family. We showed them that this is a place where celebrations happen with loved ones, where culture is experienced through togetherness. That’s what people come for.”

Interestingly, Khanna himself hasn’t been able to book tables at his restaurant as they sell out in seconds. No wonder why the restaurant’s website cautions you to book “20 days in advance,”

Expansion in retail

Khanna’s story is still “a work in progress”. With a reported net worth of $12.21 million (INR 1,165 crores), he is today one of the richest chefs in the world, alongside Gordon Ramsay and Jamie Oliver. He has expanded into retail, with his sauces dominating the premium shelves of Walmart and Costco. His recent tie-up with Kolkata Chai Company is yet another feat for any Indian chef, making South Asian food advance into the West-influenced market.

Every day, more than 10 offers from international brands knock on his doorstep. “Let’s go global, they tell me,” says Khanna. But the thought doesn’t fascinate him. “When people come and say we can take this to the world. I am like, no, we can take it to the world. We have the power and the shoulders to carry on with humility and with grace.”

Prior to starting Bungalow, Khanna founded Kinara and Ellora in Dubai. Bungalow is expected to partner with Punjab Meat House in New Jersey in the coming weeks.

“So yes, it’s a growing portfolio, and I oversee all of it. But I’m still a working chef. I’m not someone who sits behind a desk or only looks at spreadsheets. You’ll find me at Bungalow every single night because that’s my first priority,” he says.

Chef Vikas Khanna applying nailpaint on Maisha’s fingers (Photo: vikaskhannagroup/Instagram)

Why not India?

When asked why he hasn’t yet opened a restaurant here in India, Khanna presented a thought-provoking explanation. “When a child is capable of competing for an Olympic gold medal, what would you want them to do? Stay within the comfort of competing with classmates, or step onto the global stage and fight for the highest honour?”

That’s how he sees Indian cuisine. “For me, the answer has always been New York. If I can build a successful Indian restaurant here, it raises the value of Indian cuisine globally. It attracts attention, investment and respect for our food culture. It’s one of the wealthiest and most demanding cities on the planet. Running a restaurant in Manhattan is far harder than running one almost anywhere else. I could charge $10,000 for a dish tomorrow, but only if I can justify it through excellence, because that’s the standard the city demands. So where should I invest my energy?”

Reaffirming that “there is no city quite like Manhattan”, Khanna reiterated why there is no substitute for New York, and how even some of the world’s top chefs have struggled to find a permanent place here.

“From Alain Ducasse to Gordon Ramsay, many globally celebrated names found that New York would not simply accept them…” According to a 2012 report by The New York Times, Chef Alain Ducasse no longer has a Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant in New York City. His last such restaurant, Adour Alain Ducasse, closed in 2012 after his flagship Alain Ducasse at Essex House shut in 2006. Today, his only restaurant in the city is Benoit New York.

Likewise, Gordon Ramsay’s flagship fine-dining restaurant, Gordon Ramsay at The London, closed in 2014. Even though Ramsay opened fast-casual outlets in New York, including Gordon Ramsay Fish & Chips in Times Square, that has also permanently closed.

“History has shown that even renowned French chefs like Joël Robuchon couldn’t easily build lasting success in this city.” His L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, a two-Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant in New York City, is permanently closed.

“That’s why succeeding in New York means so much. If Indian cuisine can thrive here, it can thrive anywhere,” Khanna reiterates, emphasising the growing impact of Indian cuisine in the city.

 

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‘Bungalow is my daughter’

“One thing I’ve realised after all these years is that many fine-dining restaurants project a very masculine energy. They often celebrate power, excess and wealth. I felt that this sometimes takes away from the warmth and nurturing qualities that make a space truly welcoming,” shares Khanna.

With Bungalow, he wanted to create a restaurant that embodies feminine energy. “In many ways, I imagined it taking the form of my daughter. That’s why rituals, prayers, and a sense of warmth are woven into our everyday life at the restaurant.”
The restaurant was designed by a woman. “You can see it in the natural light, the music, the softness of the spaces and the overall sense of calm. Every detail reflects that femininity.”

And Maisha, his business partner’s daughter, inclusively represents this femininity. The 18-year-old’s innocence, as she is also a social media star now, fills Khanna with so much joy every time he speaks of her.

Every day when she reaches the restaurant, Khanna has to ensure that her nail-paint and hair are in place. “People come to the restaurant just to meet her. Watching her grow into this remarkable young woman makes me emotional every single day,” he says.

She is not filling any void but adding life to Radhika’s legacy in Bungalow, which will be closing on March 23, 2034, marking a decade since the latter’s demise.

“If it was not a promise to my sister, I would not be doing this,” Khanna pauses. That’s how Bungalow happened for him. And that’s how Radhika’s legacy will live on!