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Nostalgia on a plate: Calcutta’s must-try dishes, iconic spots and hidden gems

From legendary biryani joints and country clubs to Chinatown staples and chic but old-world bakeries, a nostalgic food trail through the city that stays the same.

Phuchka is the more refined sister of paani puri or gol gappas (Source: Freepik)

There is a certain charm to going back to the city you grew up in, even if it seems stuck in time. Maybe that’s the charm. Anyone who is from Calcutta will vouch for this. It’s a city where time appears to have paused. The people are the same, the restaurants are the same, and the city looks the same. The streets look untouched by the wave of glass-and-steel modernity that has swept through other metros. And if you hang out with the right people, it’s one of the few cities in which you feel people actually enjoy the simpler and finer things in life – reading, talking to each other, playing cards, meeting over a cup of tea or a glass of Bloody Mary.

I spent a long weekend in my hometown last week and returned 2.5 kgs heavier, a 500 gm gain per day. I owe this to Calcutta’s legendary country clubs, whose menus have stood the test of time, and to its restaurants steeped in history and carpet dust. There’s a Chinatown (Tangra) that serves authentic Hakka cuisine – I’ve been going there since I was five – and a pastry shop that could put some of the finest bakeries in Paris to shame, given that it has been churning out soft buttery cakes, truffle pastries and fruit tarts since 1985.

So, what would my dream gastronomical holiday in Calcutta look like?

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Let’s start with chicken biryani and mutton chaap at Shiraz in Park Circus. Founded in 1941, Shiraz makes the most delectable Kolkata-style biryani – very similar to Lucknowi biryani – that’s light, aromatic and always comes with a large potato cooked in the meat stock, a boiled egg, and perfectly spiced rice. The chaap, unique to Calcutta, is a slow-cooked, spiced mutton or chicken in thick gravy, always served with biryani. And if you’re feeling truly gluttonous, I’d recommend the rezala –– a sublimely cooked chicken or meat in a white gravy, lightly spiced with a dry red chili. For context, a plate of special chicken biryani (two pieces of chicken, a boiled egg, a potato and enough rice to feed three people) and one mutton chaap will cost you about Rs 900, including taxes.

If you are not too finicky, stop for phuchka on Russell Street or Ballygunge. Phuchka is the more refined sister of paani puri or gol gappas: mashed spicy potato laced with roasted masalas, green chillies and coriander, served with a tamarind-spiced water (with a mild touch of bacteria). Don’t forget alu kabli – sliced potatoes mixed with tamarind pulp, chillies and masalas – that will clear your sinuses in seconds. You won’t find it anywhere else.

Founded in 1941, Shiraz makes the most delectable Kolkata-style biryani – very similar to Lucknowi biryani – that’s light, aromatic and always comes with a large potato cooked in the meat stock, a boiled egg, and perfectly spiced rice. (Source: Rajyasree Sen)

A visit to Calcutta is incomplete without a meal at Mocambo, which has been around since 1956. Its low hanging red-cloth lamps, white tablecloths, red leather chairs, and waiters – or “bearers,” as they’re called here – in full regalia are all throwbacks to another era. You go for the nostalgia – prawn cocktail, stuffed crab, tetrazzini, baked Alaska – washed down with a Tom Collins or Screwdriver priced around Rs 200. Regulars like me complain that the food isn’t what it used to be. And yet, we return. If you don’t get a table there, you can always go to The Other Room at the other end of Park Street which has the same décor, same menu and same prices.

If you’re lucky, try and get a member to take you for a meal to one of the many country clubs in the city. Go have a cold coffee or Bloody Mary and fish fingers while looking out at the greens at The Tollygunge Club. Or beer and Chinese food or the steak with a fried egg at the Calcutta Cricket and Football Club, you might even get to see a football or cricket match. And if you can, go have some Chinese food at the Bengal Club. Yes, many of us Calcuttans are spoilt because of our club memberships, but rather than complain, get yourself signed in and share the joy.

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Bloody Mary and prawn wafers at The Other Room. (Source: Rajyasree Sen)

I don’t usually eat Bengali food outside when I’m home, but if you’re looking for a traditional spread, try Kewpies or 6 Ballygunge Place. The former is my pick.

For Calcutta Chinese, head to Golden Joy, Beijing, or Kafulok in Tangra, the city’s Chinatown. These aren’t fine-dining restaurants, but they’re clean, air-conditioned, and serve food that defines the genre: rice noodles, lemon chicken, roast chilli pork, fried rice, Thai soup (which has nothing to do with Thailand). Chinatown which spreads over to Tiretti Bazaar and Tangra also house two iconic sauce factories in India – Pou Chong and Sing Cheung – legends in their own right.

End your day with a pastry from Kookie Jar. Not Flurys. Not Kathleen. Kookie Jar opened next to my school in 1985, and to this day offers the finest truffle pastries, lemon tarts, black forest cakes, and nutty corners. In fact, the Ambanis served their cakes at the most recent big fat Indian wedding. You would really be missing something if you didn’t try their creations.

If your heart beats for Bengali sweets, stop by any neighbourhood mishti shop. All the sweets are made fresh each morning, and the variety is unmatched. It might also explain the beautiful physiques of most Bengali men and women. If you want to get fancy, go to Balaram Mullick or KC Das.

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And then, as any true Bengali will tell you, complete your day with a swig of Carmozyme or Gelusil. I can lay an educated guess that the sales of digestive liquids or tablets like Unienzyme are unsurpassed by any other city.