Mumbai: Global Chaos expertly balances diversity and familiarity on its menu

Despite the variety, most of the food is relatable. It will not push the boundaries of anyone's comfort zone, although some items have been jazzed up.

Written by Radhika Singh | Mumbai | Updated: May 14, 2016 3:04:26 pm
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Given the potpourri of items on the menu of Global Chaos, it’s a good thing that the decor is unfussy. It keeps at bay the confusion that a customer feels when confronted with options that span continents — Asian, American, European, African. Chef Chingy Patel, who has opened the restaurant, plans to revamp the menu every four months, so customers will continue to be spoilt for choice.

Despite the variety, most of the food is relatable. It will not push the boundaries of anyone’s comfort zone, although some items have been jazzed up. The Wasabi Paani Puri, for instance, has pani puri shells filled with wasabi coated paneer, mashed chickpeas, and bean sprouts, served with sweet and spicy paani in shot glasses. In the stifling heat and humidity of the city’s summer, this dish was as refreshing as a glass of nimbu pani.

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The Vietnamese Summer Rolls — julienned vegetables, tofu, and glass noodles rolled into a rice paper — were a tad tasteless. This is disappointing, given the hundreds of varieties of spring rolls that one can find all over East and Southeast Asia. The Butter Garlic Prawns, which were fried in a light tempura batter and tossed in a butter and curry leaf sauce, were well-cooked and tasty, but nothing new.

From the American section, we tried the sliders, or small burgers. The non-veg variety had a filling of brined chicken, and its bun was coloured purple-black with squid ink. The veg slider was stuffed with pulled seitan, a mock meat, with the buns coloured green using spinach. We loved the buns, which were soft and chewy, and both the veg and non-veg fillings had an jammy texture that was a nice balance of sweet and spicy.

The best dish, without a doubt, were the Asparagus Phyllo Spears. That makes sense, given that Chef Patel started out at the César Ritz Colleges in Switzerland and claims European food as his specialty. The dish was baked perfectly; the phyllo came out crisp, buttery, and was coated in parmesan cheese, and the asparagus was crunchy and fresh. The tangy pomegranate and grenadine dip added a bright note.

Another excellent dish was the Middle Eastern Kibbeh, an Iranian kebab made of minced lamb and stuffed with bulgar wheat. It was flavourful- spiced with Sumac, coriander, and cumin- but managed to be fairly light. The addition of lamb fat, made it juicy and the meat simply melted in our mouths.

From the mains we tried the Quinoa Risotto with Native American Vegetables- namely, corn, squash, and bell peppers that had been domesticated in Mesoamerica thousands of years ago. Although lightly flavoured with delicious chipotle, a smoke-dried jalapeno, the dish was unfortunately too salty. An interesting dish to try would be the South African Bunny Chow — a vegetable curry served in a hollowed bread loaf.

After navigating a forest of options in the rest of the menu, the straightforward and minimal desserts section came as a surprise. The Hazelnut Creme Brulee was recommended to us, and with good reason. Another testament to the chef’s forte, the custard was rich and light and had a perfectly brittle caramel topping.

The restaurant is still awaiting its liquor licence, but given its location — between Fort’s commercial buzz and the Kala Ghoda shopping district — there’s no reason for the restaurant to not do well, particularly with the lunch-hour crowds.

Meal for Two: Rs 2,000

Address: 105-107, Mistry Mansion, Opposite Mumbai University, Fort, Mumbai

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