Litti Chokha and beyond: Patna-born chef on serving up surprises from Bihar

With Patna-born chef, Nandita Karan, in the kitchen, The Lalit in Delhi reveals the secrets of Bihari cuisine — and it goes beyond Litti Chokha. The festival is on for lunch and dinner till August 12.

3 min readNew DelhiUpdated: Aug 11, 2018 09:53 AM IST

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Litti Chokha: A delicacy from Bihar, it is made with stuffed whole wheat dough balls with roasted chana dal and spices inside.

Bihari cuisine, unlike the politics of the state, almost never makes news. Only a dedicated foodie can name five dishes from dishes, without adding litti chokha. At The Lalit in Delhi, Patna-born chef Nandita Karan is serving up surprises from Bihar to diners. Excerpts from an interview:

My Taste of Bihar

Though I was born in Bihar, I moved to Udaipur very soon as my father worked there. Bihar was where I went for summer holidays. My nani and dadi made our annual visit an excuse to lavish us with all kinds of traditional dishes cooked the old way, on chulhas packed with coal. That’s how I first tasted litti chokha, dal peetha and mawa, a sweet that is meant to be eaten in winter. Strangely, it was not as a child but when I grew up and became a chef that I developed a fondness for the cuisine of my state.

Mawa Peetha: The traditional dishes are cooked the old way, on chulhas packed with coal.

Diversity Cuisine

At The Lalit, we promote diversity across all platforms and spaces. The idea to have a Bihari food festival was an attempt to highlight this little-known cuisine. I was already comfortable with cooking food from Bihar, thanks to the many holidays home when my mother and I, both foodies, would try out old recipes and new preparations.

Dal Peetha: A popular rice flour dumpling, it is either stuffed with sweet or a spicy filling.

Something From The Past

I first came across Champaran Ahuna Mutton at a restaurant in Patna called Old Champaran Meat House, and loved it. The distinct flavour of the mutton dish comes from it being cooked entirely in an earthen pot. We mix the mutton with garam masala and other spices — no tomatoes — and leave it to cook slowly in its own juice in an earthen vessel on a coal-fire. This is a dish that we have presented at the festival to give people an idea of a traditional dish.

Champaran Ahuna Mutton: The distinct flavour of the mutton dish comes from it being cooked entirely in an earthen pot.

Something New

Bachka is a kind of flat fritter, made with green chana. We have tried it with green peas and laal saag and are pleased to say that it has come out very well.

Eating Habits

I always knew that Bihari cuisine was simple and relied heavily on vegetable so I was surprised to find that there are many types of fish preparation. There is fried fish in an array of marinades as well as mustard-based fish gravies or those with tomato and onion.

Patna-born chef Nandita Karan is serving up surprises from Bihar at The Lalit in New Delhi.

The festival is on for lunch and dinner till August 12.

Dipanita Nath

Dipanita Nath is a Senior Assistant Editor at The Indian Express, based in Pune. She is a versatile journalist with a deep interest in the intersection of culture, sustainability, and urban life. Professional Background Experience: Before joining The Indian Express, she worked with other major news organizations including Hindustan Times, The Times of India, and Mint. Core Specializations: She is widely recognized for her coverage of the climate crisis, theatre and performing arts, heritage conservation, and the startup ecosystem (often through her "Pune Inc" series). Storytelling Focus: Her work often unearths "hidden stories" of Pune—focusing on historical institutes, local traditions, and the personal journeys of social innovators. Recent Notable Articles (December 2025) Her recent reporting highlights Pune’s cultural pulse and the environmental challenges facing the city during the winter season: 1. Climate & Environment "Pune shivers on coldest morning of the season; minimum temperature plunges to 6.9°C" (Dec 20, 2025): Reporting on the record-breaking cold wave in Pune and the IMD's forecast for the week. "How a heritage tree-mapping event at Ganeshkhind Garden highlights rising interest in Pune’s green legacy" (Dec 20, 2025): Covering a citizen-led initiative where Gen Z and millennials gathered to document and protect ancient trees at a Biodiversity Heritage Site. "Right to breathe: Landmark NGT order directs PMC to frame norms for pollution from construction sites" (Dec 8, 2025): Reporting on a significant legal victory for residents fighting dust and air pollution in urban neighborhoods like Baner. 2. "Hidden Stories" & Heritage "Inside Pune library that’s nourished minds of entrepreneurs for 17 years" (Dec 21, 2025): A feature on the Venture Center Library, detailing how a collection of 3,500 specialized books helps tech startups navigate the product life cycle. "Before he died, Ram Sutar gave Pune a lasting gift" (Dec 18, 2025): A tribute to the legendary sculptor Ram Sutar (creator of the Statue of Unity), focusing on his local works like the Chhatrapati Shivaji statue at Pune airport. "The Pune institute where MA Jinnah was once chief guest" (Dec 6, 2025): An archival exploration of the College of Agriculture, established in 1907, and its historical role in India's freedom struggle. 3. Arts, Theatre & "Pune Inc" "Satyajit Ray, Ritwik Ghatak were not rivals but close friends, says veteran filmmaker" (Dec 17, 2025): A deep-dive interview ahead of the Pune International Film Festival (PIFF) exploring the camaraderie between legends of Indian cinema. "Meet the Pune entrepreneur helping women build and scale businesses" (Dec 16, 2025): Part of her "Pune Inc" series, profiling Nikita Vora’s efforts to empower female-led startups. "How women drone pilots in rural Maharashtra are cultivating a green habit" (Dec 12, 2025): Exploring how technology is being used by women in agriculture to reduce chemical use and labor. Signature Style Dipanita Nath is known for intellectual curiosity and a narrative-driven approach. Whether she is writing about a 110-year-old eatery or the intricacies of the climate crisis, she focuses on the human element and the historical context. Her columns are often a blend of reportage and cultural commentary, making them a staple for readers interested in the "soul" of Pune. X (Twitter): @dipanitanath ... Read More

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