From Kashmir’s harisa to Varanasi’s malaiyo, mapping the history and evolution of winter foods in India

Harisa is only prepared during the winter months in Kashmir. (file)

A cultural embrace in every bite

In the icy embrace of Kashmir, the rich aroma of harisa fills the air. This slow-cooked mutton porridge, seasoned with spices and thickened with rice or wheat, is a dish that has sustained generations during harsh winters. Derived from the Arabic word haris, meaning “to pound,” harisa carries the culinary influence of Central Asia, brought to Kashmir by Afghan rulers. Chef and food historian Sadaf Hussain describes it as a family ritual, often prepared in a large dek (kadhai) with collective effort—a tradition as warming as the dish itself. It is served with tchot (Kashmiri bread).

Moving southwards, the fields of Jammu and Punjab echo the earthy aroma of panjeeri and pinni. These ghee-laden, nutrient-dense treats, made with whole wheat, jaggery, and nuts, are quintessential winter companions. Farmers, braving frosty mornings, created these energy-packed sweets to sustain themselves through the season. Head chef and restaurant consultant Tarveen Kaur highlights their role as both nourishment and celebration, particularly in postnatal care, where they help new mothers regain strength.

In the northern plains, winter mornings hold a special delight for those who seek the ephemeral pleasures of malaiyo in Benaras, daulat ki chaat in Delhi, or nimish in Lucknow. These frothy, cloud-like desserts, churned from milk foam and flavoured with saffron, are culinary marvels born of cold air and morning dew. Hussain recounts the Mughal origins of these, particularly Daulat ki chaat, which finds mention in historical texts like the Shahjahanama. Each variant has its signature twist—malaiyo with banana and pine nuts, and nimish dissolving on the tongue like a sweet whisper.

Til Pitha, a delicate rice crepe filled with sesame and jaggery, graces the festivities of Magh Bihu (Source: Wikimedia Commons)

Homage to harvest and tradition

In Gujarat, the preparation of Methi Pak brings families together in kitchens fragrant with the scent of fenugreek, jaggery, and dried fruits. This sweet fudge, bursting with medicinal properties, has been passed down through generations, balances indulgence and health. Often gifted to new mothers, it is revered for its ability to boost immunity and provide warmth.

Assam’s til pitha and Bihar’s tilkut pay homage to the humble sesame seed and the golden sweetness of jaggery. Til pitha, a delicate rice crepe filled with sesame and jaggery, graces the festivities of Magh Bihu, while tilkut, with its caramel-like depth, is Bihar’s lesser-known winter gem. Hussain describes these as a celebration of harvest and community, their flavours tying generations to the cycles of the land.

This stir-fried dish, made with beetroot, grated coconut, and spices, may not be exclusive to the season (Source: Wikimedia Commons)

Seasonal nourishment across the map

In Tamil Nadu, the simmering pots of pepper rasam exude an invigorating aroma. This tangy, spicy soup, made with black pepper, tamarind, ginger, and lentils, is a comfort food and an Ayurvedic remedy. The word rasa, meaning “essence,” captures its essence—a dish that soothes, nourishes, and revitalises. Kaur notes its role as a winter staple in Tamil households, where therapeutic cooking is an integral part of daily life.

In the Himalayan states of Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh, the warm glow of chhang—a traditional fermented millet or barley drink—offers respite from the biting cold. Chhang is enjoyed during festivals and gatherings. Hussain fondly recalls trying egg chhang, a variation enriched with eggs, at an Arunachali eatery in Delhi’s Humayunpur, where the drink’s rustic charm and warming properties left a lasting impression.

In Kerala, beetroot thoran adds a burst of colour to winter plates. This stir-fried dish, made with beetroot, grated coconut, and spices, may not be exclusive to the season, but its use of winter’s freshest produce makes it a delightful addition to Kerala’s traditional vegetarian fare. Kaur appreciates how this dish reflects the region’s tropical abundance, where every meal celebrates the land’s natural bounty.

As the frost settles and fireplaces crackle, these culinary treasures invite us to savour the season with gratitude and joy. Winter in India is not just to be endured—it is to be celebrated, one delicious bite at a time.