‘Back to my roots’: As Hina Khan shares a taste of Kashmiri comfort with Lawaasa and chai, we understand the origin and evolution of this traditional bread

Historical origin of Kashmiri Lawaasa and how it has evolved

Singh mentions, “Lawaasa has deep roots in Kashmir’s culinary and cultural heritage. Believed to have been influenced by Central Asian and Persian baking traditions, it emerged as a staple bread in the Kashmir Valley centuries ago. Historically, Lawaasa was prepared in tandoors by community bakers known as kandurs, who served not just as artisans but as keepers of culinary continuity across generations.”

Lawaasa and chai, particularly noon chai (the pink, salted tea), form a pairing that is both cultural and practical. (Source: Instagram/Hina Khan)

Traditionally made with all-purpose flour, a touch of yeast or sourdough starter, and sometimes milk, Singh notes that Lawaasa is distinguished by its soft, slightly chewy texture and mild tang. “Over time, while the core recipe has remained mostly unchanged, there’s been a shift in how it’s made. Urban households today may use ovens or skillets, and commercial bakers often incorporate baking enhancers for shelf life. However, in villages and by traditional kandurs, the method remains beautifully intact, preserving the artisanal essence of this bread.”

Significance of traditional tandoor and local technique 

The conventional tandoor is integral to Lawaasa’s authenticity. Singh notes that, unlike mechanised ovens, the clay tandoor, fired with wood or coal, “imparts a unique smokiness and helps create a delicate balance between a slightly crisp exterior and a soft, steamy interior.” This is not easily replicable through modern baking methods.

The kandurs who prepare Lawaasa have perfected the dough kneading, fermentation timing, and tandoor handling through generational learning. “Even the way the dough is slapped against the tandoor wall impacts the bread’s final texture. It’s not just a baking method, it’s a craft that weaves together memory, rhythm, and a deep understanding of heat and humidity, especially considering Kashmir’s varied seasons,” explains Singh. 

Why is Lawaasa typically paired with chai?

Lawaasa and chai, particularly noon chai (the pink, salted tea), form a pairing that is both cultural and practical. Singh mentions, “Noon chai, rich in fats and salts, provides warmth and hydration, important in Kashmir’s harsh winters. Paired with Lawaasa, which is filling and energy-dense, it becomes an ideal breakfast or midday sustenance, especially for people engaged in physical labour or exposed to cold temperatures.”

The expert continues, “This combination also reflects the Kashmiri philosophy of slow living and communal eating. Lawaasa is often torn and dipped slowly into a steaming cup of chai during morning gatherings, whether in homes, on terraces, or at the kandur wan (bakery shop). The pairing is less about luxury and more about nourishment, warmth, and continuity, rooted in Kashmir’s climate, customs, and collective memory.”