Sadaf Hussain, food historian and writer, on his new book ‘Masalamandi’: ‘Cooking and eating are both divine for me’
The former MasterChef India contestant talks about his latest book, childhood, and the romance of food.
“You, me and all of us are pretty much stories. You are here today, you might not be tomorrow, but the stories shall always remain.' says Sadaf. (Image: Instagram/@sadaf_hussain) Sadaf Hussain is not just a chef; he is a food historian and storyteller with a deep appreciation for culinary traditions. Born in the small town of Ramgarh, Jharkhand, his childhood was steeped in aromatic memories—his mother, Anjum, grinding masala on a silbatta, Sehri at his naani’s (maternal grandmother) house during Eid, and late-night nihari feasts with college flatmates.
This passionate “homecook” made his mark on MasterChef India Season 5 in 2016, showcasing his culinary skills and love for food. Since then, he has explored various ways of sharing his expertise, from food pop-ups with curated menus to immersive food walks in Old Delhi’s historic lanes, taking people back in time to some quintessential spots. In an exclusive conversation with indianexpress.com, Hussain talks about his latest book, Masalamandi, and his enduring love for food.
The art of storytelling in food
When asked about his knack for storytelling, Hussain offered a philosophical take: “You, me, and all of us are stories. We exist today, but tomorrow, only our stories will remain. Whether through books or movies, I have always loved storytelling.”
With Masalamandi, Hussain’s goal was to unravel the mysticism of Indian spices that shape age-old recipes. For him, food is an experience that extends beyond taste—it is about the stories behind every dish. “For food to be truly enjoyed, it must have a story. That’s why I write in a conversational style—it makes food history more engaging,” he said.
Talking about the non-linearity of food history, he cites the ongoing debate over the origins of butter chicken as a prime example: “Families are fighting over who really invented the recipe, but I think it’s this story that made the dish popular. Similarly, chicken tikka masala became a national dish in the United Kingdom, with claims that a Pakistani chef in Glasgow created it.”
For the chef, food is a combination of logic and romance. His pop-ups and food walks are designed to immerse people in the joy of eating, encouraging them to appreciate the heritage behind every bite. “Cooking and eating, both are divine for me. I want people who come to eat with me to enjoy food as much as I do,” he said.
Food divides as much as it unites
Hussain believes that while food is often seen as a unifier, it can also be divisive. “Food has always been political. The key is to respect what others eat, without attaching moral or ethical superiority to one cuisine over another,” he said, recalling the time he shared with a group he had taken on a food walk how “upper caste” Brahmins did not allow the so-called “lower caste” people to eat biscuits. According to him, “If you want to control a community, you control its food.”
Another layer of food politics, he noted, is gender discrimination in the kitchen. “For generations, women have cooked but rarely served themselves first. Our mothers and grandmothers made meals, yet men ate before them. Fortunately, I grew up in a household where this was not the norm. My mother had paralysis on one side, so my father took on a lot of the cooking. In fact, our entire family—my dad, my brother, and I—cooked together,” he said.
He also shared a telling anecdote about a female friend who, despite being a professional chef, was expected to cook at home after work—an expectation rarely placed on male chefs. Hussain’s children’s book The Carrot Soup explored such gender dynamics.
A love for street food
A connoisseur of Indian street food, Hussain urges people to embrace it without elitist biases.
“There’s a misconception that all street food is unhygienic, yet it has inspired many fine-dining menus. The street food of a city reflects its culture. In Delhi, people love deep-fried chole bhature, taking their time to enjoy a leisurely Sunday meal. In contrast, Mumbai’s vada pav culture is fast-paced, mirroring the city’s hustle.”
Sadaf enjoys a plate of nihari in the streets of Old Delhi. (Image: Instagram/@sadaf_hussain)
Hussain said he admires cities like Lucknow, Kolkata, and Kochi for their dedication to preserving food traditions. “They are deeply passionate about their culinary heritage, which helps keep it alive. In Delhi, there is a growing effort to revive forgotten dishes, but much more can be done in preserving age old recipes. Masalamandi is my tribute to the diverse spice blends that define Indian cuisine—from biryani to chai and parathas. As the book says, ‘One spice can change an entire dish’.”
MasterChef and culinary heroes
Since appearing on MasterChef India, Hussain has been an avid fan of the show. As for his favourite judges, he said, “I admire both Chef Vikas and Chef Ranveer. Ranveer, in particular, shares my love for storytelling, so I feel a strong connection with him.”
He also paid homage to the legendary Imtiaz Qureshi, who passed away last year. It was he who pioneered the “dum pukht” style of slow cooking. “He was one of India’s greatest chefs. When I met him for the first time, I was completely starstruck. His reputation was so immense that anyone with the surname ‘Qureshi’ wanted to be associated with him,” Hussain said.
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When asked if he envisions owning a restaurant, Hussain said he prefers the idea of a cafe over fine dining. “I want people to come in, relax, and have fun.”
He shared his love for food saying, “As a kid, I wanted to be the fattest person on Earth. My Amma would serve me four meals within the first five hours of the day.” Today, his ideal indulgence is a quiet moment with a good cup of coffee. And through books, pop-ups and food walks, Hussain continues to share the magic of food, one story at a time.
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