Teddy Boy throws away the cookie cutter format so beloved of Connaught Place and actually serves up food — imaginative, well-executed and superbly presented. As we get over our shock, let’s take a look around. Ostensibly inspired by the British invasion (the cultural one), the smoky red-brick space is bedecked with game heads — only stags. We’re not sure if there’s a message there — with a soundscape that gladdens our eardrums. Think classic rock with a medley of soft electronica.
The food menu has been conceptualised by two chefs from diametric ends of the country; Dinesh Bahrani is from Mumbai and Doyel Sarangi from Kolkata. Together in Delhi, with a pinch of paanch phoron and a dash of gunpowder, they create a mosaic of flavours and colours from within India and without. Owner Priyank Sukhija adds his own characteristic decadence to the mix. There’s also an entire butter chicken section. The bar menu is equally eclectic, comprising shots (molecular and otherwise), signature and classical cocktails and, most interestingly, bantas. Delhi’s favourite street drink appears in a jazzed-up avatar with alcohol and carbonated in a thick glass bottle sealed with the familiar sphere. Feel free to go pop.
We start with Spicy Tenderloin Kulcha Tacos and Momos (Home Style Pork and Jucy-Lucy Mutton). The crispy yet pliant tacos, tendered with masaledar shredded tenderloin and khara onions, is well, as good as it sounds, while the momos outshine the the gold standards, namely Yashwant Place and Humayunpur.
Next up is a fork in the road, one leading to Kolkata, the other to Mumbai; the former is represented by a Prawn Jhalmuri while Sharma Chinese Egg Rolls take one to Mumbaiya. The jhalmuri comes rice a-popping, chillies a-sizzling, lime a-squeezing, twirled up with battered shrimp — the only thing missing is the twist of paper. The replacement chilled martini glass, and its contents, more than suffice. The egg rolls are more rustic, egg stuffed spring rolls fragrantly dusted with a chilli garlic masala
In the Butter Chicken section, from which we order the Butter Chicken Legs, which come with the tagline “legs don’t come sexier”. They really don’t; tandoori chicken legs, succulent and smoky, accompanied by a glazy butter chicken gravy, this will make any Delhiwalla go Mama.
The final course, bar dessert, is a Malai Chingri Curry, a contemporary take on a classical Bengali dish. The creamy prawn curry simmered in coconut milk is served with a sticky rice coloured with beetroot pulp, lending it a red velvety finish. It’s as smooth as it sounds, the coconut milk tempering the garlic and masalas.
We’ve discovered there’s always room for dessert. This comes in the form of Ferrero Rocher Golgappa, comprising crisp savoury golgappas stuffed with chocolate boondi and served atop a shot glass with white chocolate sauce. Fill your golgappa, scrunch, swallow and repeat.