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Sunday, November 29, 2020

Food Review: Nestle up and sup at Perch, Khan Market

Tucked away in the middle lane of Khan Market, the wine and coffee bar takes its food seriously.

Written by Shantanu David | New Delhi | February 28, 2016 4:03:16 pm
Perch1_759_Oven roasted Belgian pork belly with bacon potato terrine, wilted greens and plum ginger sauce — at Perch Oven roasted Belgian pork belly with bacon potato terrine, wilted greens and plum ginger sauce. (Source: Facebook)

Nestled away in the middle lane of Khan Market lies the wine and coffee bar known as Perch. Its space is homely, plain to the point of being Spartan but still rendered cheery by the warm lighting. White dominates the walls, while the flooring is wooden. Despite the dimunitiveness of Khan Markets eateries, Perch manages its limited dimensions very well.

Even though it’s a wine and coffee bar, Perch takes its food seriously as one can tell from their menu, which is seasonal. A pastiche of largely European flavours, it is tempered by Modernist sensibilities; expect a certain amount of razzmatazz on your plate.

Convinced that it will be a mouthful, we order the Crispy Lotus Stem in Kimchi Caramel. Piled up in a bowl, the slivered lotus stems come spicy with the Korean seasoning, the caramel adding a crunch rather than sweetness to the snack, which is welcome. These make for an excellent drinking accompaniment.

And as it is a coffee AND wine bar, we order the Coffee Sangria, figuring we’re shooting two birds with one stone, or at least two drinks in one glass. The red wine and coffee take turns to dominate one’s palate. The first taste is robustly caffeinated, gradually giving way to the full-bodied wine, finally fading back to the broad notes of coffee; truly a winter drink, the combination goes swimmingly well.

Perch2_Mix berry pannacotta with white chocolate mint sauce and champagne snow Mix berry pannacotta with white chocolate mint sauce and champagne snow. (Source: Facebook)

Our lotus eating over, so to speak, we get the Stuffed Pork Sausage on Toast for our entree. The in-house sausages are small but potent with an inherent smokiness and come covered by a sheet of melted Manchego, the Spanish sheep’s milk cheese adding a sharpness to the meat, the entire mélange rounded off by a lush apricot jam.

Between sips we decide to sup on the Fish Market Pot. The marine collective comprises tilapia, salmon, shrimp, prawn and calamari simmered with broccoli, fennel and other greens in a creamy sauce and fortified by ribbon pasta. As they say, it’s good eatin’.

For dessert, we order the Fluffy Cotton Cheese Cake, because how can one not? Served with a mix berry sorbet and Bailey’s crème anglaise, it’s pliant but substantial, without being saccharine sweet. The tartness gives an interesting contrast to the cake. All in all, a most palatable evening.

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