Perched on a wall in SDA market is a scooter, the façade to a new restaurant called Scooter on the Wall. Go figure. Located atop a flight of stairs littered with dummy doors (in that they are fake, not dense), the eatery is a diminutive space, where sit tables fashioned out of scooter components and swing-er-swing chairs, providing you with a sense of motion.
The menu is similarly automatively inclined, with burgers labelled as headlights, pizzas as rims and sides (mashed potatoes and their ilk) as nuts and bolts. Cuisine-wise, it’s like Joey Tribbiani from Friends on Star World — Italian-American and catering to an Indian audience. So yes, there is a butter chicken pasta.
Deciding to take as big a bite of the menu as we can, we start with the Surf and Turf platter, which corrals together several of the appetisers on a big wooden slab. The shakes having been highly recommended by our friendly server (who, for a pleasant change, knows the menu), we order The Rock and Truffle All the Way flavours. The shakes shimmy up first and stop the presses because they are fantastic. The Rock comprises vanilla ice cream, butterscotch, caramel and banana all swirled into a delectable drink you can eat, while the Truffle lashes together truffle cake, chocolate and coffee in its decadent depths.
The platter, while less inspirational, isn’t anything to scoff at either. Battered Fish Fingers, Lemon Grilled Fish and Chilli Prawn synchronise together, with the melting flaky fingers swimming away with the gold. The dry land contingent consists Buffalo Chicken Wings, Chicken Satay and Chicken Sausages. The wings, tender and juicy, get all the glory here, while the Satay, well-spiced but a tad chewy, comes in second. Last, and least, are the sausages, a drab affair flavoured with processing and ready-to-eat compromise. But hey, we still have more than half a glass of shake left.
Having had a relatively smooth ride so far, we decide to continue down the road with some staples. This is where the potholes start. The Classic Lambretta Pasta, which is made with “All time favourite white sauce” and misses out on wordplay by being served with chicken, is a sweet little number. Unfortunately, we mean this literally. For reasons known only to it and its maker, the pasta — while perfectly al dente and with a velveteen texture — has a saccharine finish, which rather spoils the whole effect.
Conversely, the Grilled Lamb Burger has a patty that has been clearly sourced from a cranky old goat, given the rangy smell emanating from the meat. On digging in, we can confirm the age, if not the nature, of the beast, with each over-chewed mouthful. This is a shame given that the other elements of the sandwich, has a lot going for it, from pliant buns (no pun) to fresh crunchy lettuce to a zesty mint mayo spread. Once Scooter gets some technical issues sorted, it should be a welcome addition to the city’s host of reasonable cafes.
Meal for two: Rs 1,200 (including taxes)
Address: 1st floor, C-4, SDA Market, SDA
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