September 19, 2021 9:40:14 pm
By Zainab Shah
At a wedding function in Lahore, Pakistan, shimmering fabrics, bright colors, maximalist jewelry and glittering makeup form a dazzling display of aesthetic maximalism. Old grudges are set aside or permanently forgotten in favor of love and blessings. Everyone knows newlyweds will need both, and so everyone is invited — and fed.
The food served is a point of pride for the hosts. This is perhaps why chicken steam roast is almost always included as a main dish. So ubiquitous is its presence that it has come to be known as shadiyon wala steam roast — shadiyon wala means “of the weddings” in Urdu — and it may just be the best thing about a Lahori wedding after the bride.
The night before the function, or while elaborate tents are being assembled and chandeliers hung, chickens are quartered, scored and marinated in yogurt, ginger, garlic and spices (red chile, turmeric and cumin, with some variations). Large chicken pieces are slowly cooked in a heavy daig, a pomegranate-shaped metal pot the size of a large cauldron.
A night of marinating and then a couple of hours of slow steaming in the daig steeps the chicken with hefty, warm flavors from the spices and citrusy freshness from coriander, another seed common in desi cooking. A weight is placed on the lid of the daig so nothing is lost, not even a little bit of steam. The result: tender, succulent, delicately but thoroughly spiced meat that falls off the bone, making it easy to eat.
Steam roast chicken’s endurance is a testament to its affordability and popularity. Perhaps this is why home cooks across Pakistan have found ways to replicate this tender, juicy, crowd-pleasing chicken. The key: using a deep stockpot placed on top of a tawa (a thin flat metal pan used for making rotis) to temper the heat long enough for the chicken to cook in its own juices and in the steam that accumulates in the pot. The tawa is a surefire way of preventing the skinless chicken from sticking to the pot or burning during the hourlong steaming process.
This recipe comes from my attempts at re-creating the steam roasts I grew up eating at the home of my phopho, a paternal aunt. The first few tries were a real test of my patience and faith. More times than I care to admit, I’d open the stockpot too soon just to make sure the chicken was OK, whatever that meant. A cloud of steam would escape in a puff, the pot cooling dramatically, and the chicken would take much longer to cook and was almost always overdone.
Then I remembered what my phopho did: While the chicken was steaming, she would peel and mandolin potatoes to fry up crispy round chips, puttering and chatting, completely engrossed in whatever it was she was talking about, almost as if nothing were on the stove. I looked away from the direct contact the low flame from my burner was making with the stockpot and put some faith in the process. It worked.
Chicken Steam Roast
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 1 hour, plus at least 2 hours of marinating
- 1/4 cup full-fat Greek yogurt
- 1/2 teaspoon paprika
- 1 teaspoon ground coriander
- 2 teaspoons ground cumin
- 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 2 teaspoons ground red chile
- 1 teaspoon ginger paste or finely grated fresh peeled ginger
- 1 teaspoon garlic paste or finely grated fresh garlic
- 6 to 8 Thai green chiles, stemmed and chopped
- 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 6 bone-in chicken legs (3 to 4 pounds), skin removed, meat scored to the bone
- Ghee or neutral oil, for cooking
- Chopped cilantro, chile flakes, mint chutney and lemon wedges, for serving
1. Mix the yogurt, spices, ginger paste, garlic paste, chopped green chiles and salt in a large bowl to make a pasty marinade. Add the chicken and thoroughly rub the marinade into the meat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to overnight.
2. Place a tawa, griddle or comal on the stove if you have one, and center a large stock pot or Dutch oven on top of it. Otherwise, place the pot directly on the stove. The stock pot or Dutch oven should be large enough to hold the chicken pieces in a single layer and deep enough to gather steam. Add enough ghee to coat the bottom of the pot, then add the chicken in one layer, meatier side down. Cover and cook on medium for 10 minutes.
3. Turn the heat to the lowest setting and continue cooking for another 20 minutes. Flip the chicken and continue cooking, covered, for another 30 minutes. Remove the lid. Cook on medium until the water from the pot has mostly evaporated, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a serving platter and pour any juices from the pot over the chicken. Garnish with cilantro and chile flakes and serve with chutney and lemon wedges for squeezing.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
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