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This is an archive article published on October 12, 2023

From Papa Don’t Preach to Rahul Mishra, couture designers are naming karigars in their designs. We decode why

Giving credit to the craftsmen and artisans is not just a matter of ethics but also a strategic move, said embroidery designer Shivani Parikh, founder, Shivanii

designer craftspersonsHere's more on what's the trend of naming craftspersons in the design itself (Source: Shubhika Sharma/Rahul Mishra/Instagram)
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From Papa Don’t Preach to Rahul Mishra, couture designers are naming karigars in their designs. We decode why
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The trend of naming craftspeople or karigars in the design itself has emerged as a way to acknowledge and celebrate the skilled artisans behind the creations.

This practice, exemplified by designers like Shubhika Sharma of Papa Don’t Preach (Liza Koshy’s NMACC gala outfit), and Rahul Mishra (Selena Gomez’s custom dress with a motif of the tailor, Munir Ahmed) signifies a positive shift in recognising the faces and names behind the designs, not just the label.

Pundits from the fashion industry laud the move and state that it conveys a “deeper connection” between consumers and the creative minds shaping the fashion industry.

“Recognising artisans by name is a positive sign as it humanises the industry, giving credit where it’s due and fostering a sense of appreciation for the craftsmanship involved. This helps dismantle the anonymity that often shrouds the people behind the scenes. By highlighting the individuals involved, it promotes transparency and ethical practices within the fashion business,” said Chitwn D Malhotra, founder, Dillano Luxurious Jewels.

Naming the craftsperson in the design itself, adds a human touch to the product, fostering a sense of authenticity and accountability, believes Deepa Goel, founder, Siddh Couture. “This is a positive sign as it goes beyond just acknowledging the brand and puts a spotlight on the actual people who put their skills, creativity, and passion into the products. It acts as a quality check for handcrafted products, hence restoring the consumer’s faith in the brand. This also promotes sustainability. It creates employment opportunities in the world often dominated by mass production. Sustainability and inclusivity are likely to remain at the forefront of the industry’s evolution,” said Deepa.

How do these small steps help?

These small steps help by giving credit where it’s due, ensuring fair recognition, and empowering the artisans who often remain in the background, mentioned Raishma Islam, creative director and founder, Raishma Couture.

Embroidery designer Shivani Parikh, founder, Shivanii listed the following pointers

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*It gives them fair recognition and compensation for their contribution to making the piece.
*Contributes to preserving traditional craftsmanship and cultural heritage.
*Teaches aspiring designers and industry, newcomers, the significance of understanding the entire supply chain and craftsmanship behind fashion.
*It promotes transparency and ethical practices in the industry
*Builds brand loyalty

Not just a sense of appreciation but also fosters innovation, experts believe. “The takeaway for the fashion industry is that giving credit to the craftsmen and artisans is not just a matter of ethics but also a strategic move. It aligns with the evolving values and preferences of today’s consumers, and it has the potential to foster innovation, sustainability, and stronger connections with the audience. In a world where authenticity and transparency are highly valued, acknowledging the people behind the art of fashion is a step in the right direction,” Shivani mentioned.

wall of fame Gautam Gupta’s wall of fame (Source: Asha Gautam)

Acknowledging that while these steps bond the artisan with the brand and design by giving them credit for their craftsmanship, designer Gautam Gupta, creative director, Asha Gautam shared food for thought. “I have said this before as well that such movements are extremely promising but what is more important for the artisan is fair payments, better working conditions, and social security,” Gupta urged.

 

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A post shared by Rahul Mishra (@rahulmishra_7)

He also added that it is a “very slow movement as a lot of brands are still not open to sharing”. “We recently did our 25th anniversary celebration where we put pictures of all our in-house teams’ artisans in one frame,” said Gupta.

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Jayashree Narayanan writes on fitness, health, aviation safety, food, culture and everything lifestyle. She is an alumnus of AJKMCRC, Jamia Millia Islamia and Kamala Nehru College, University of Delhi ... Read More


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