Twenty-five years ago when it all started, he had no clue where it will go, but he was confident about what he was doing to evolve the ‘individuality’ that he thought was missing when it came to dressing and style. Timothy Everest, the Welsh bespoke tailor and designer, who started his designing career with a motive to revolutionise the dressing concept, is all set to showcase the exclusive line in collaboration with The Woolmark India and The Raymond. In an exclusive chat with Indian Express online he spills the beans about his design philosophy, the bespoke label and potentials of Indian market at global platform.
How do you interpret fashion and style?
(Gentle Smile) Fashion and style is nothing that happens at the very moment. It is the result of generations and efforts being made in the field of dressing and clothing. And that’s how I interpret my style too. When it comes to designing, I try to give ample time to understand the legacy that is being carried in the particular genre of dressing and then I try to bring that legacy in my signature style of bespoke clothing. Even in the present collaboration where I am showcasing the collection for The Raymond, I have tried to understand the USP of the label i.e. formal dressing and from that I derived my way to give it Timothy’s touch for Indian customers.
You have been part of bespoke movement and your label is all about bespoke clothing, how did this idea come about twenty five years back?
When you are young, you can afford risk; with time as you grow older the chances start reducing. So, it was more about involving risk with what you observe in the society. When I started my designing career, I was trying to understand why people lack individuality when it comes to dressing. Getting influenced was good but for me it was about ‘individuality’ and then the idea of ‘bespoke dressing’ clicked my mind and I decided to go with it. The concept itself was new, so the degree of risk was very high, but I was sure that what I was doing was much needed to revolutionise the idea of dressing.
Talk about the exclusive collection which you have collaborated with The Woolmark India and The Raymond.
I love ‘wool’ as a fabric and I feel wool is one such fabric that is so dynamic that every designer should try their hands on it. My idea was to present a line which is very much in sync with Indian formal dressing, but at the same time, it has that individuality I look for. The collection includes total of 12 garments, out of which 6 are strictly formal in cuts and structure while 6 have a pinch of casual dressing to it. Indian formal dressing has that casual inclination, which is being carried for years and that helped me to go with the angel so that the very essence is maintained. The collection will have pleated pants, double-breasted jackets and all that one can afford in formal dressing. To make the collection in sync with time I have added Nehru Jackets. While the basic layering and accessories for the collection will see Timothy’s label on the ramp, the exclusive range crafted with ‘cool wool’ fabric will be available at The Raymond stores.
Majorly, my idea for the collaboration was to provide something new to Indian customers and at the same time promote the bespoke clothing, which is definitely the future of fashion.
When it comes to designing for films and celebrities, how far individuality matters to you?
Of course it matters. Films have altogether a different agenda. It involves good amount of time to understand the aura, the character and then I have to prepare the blueprint for each character, so that they are connected to each other, but at the same time each garment should stand for itself. While, when I work for individual client, the most important thing for me is to understand his/her style sense, and then only I can refine it to make it more individualistic in nature.
How do you see the Indian fashion market at the global platform?
It is dynamic and efforts are being made to make it globally viable and to an extent, the industry has succeeded. The quality work that Indian designers do, has helped the market to recognise the potentials that Indian designs have, and I feel very soon, Indian market will be at par with other countries who are leading the way in the fashion market.
So, can we expect Timothy Everest to launch his label in India in near future?
(Winks) Definitely. I am exploring the market; even in this visit to India I am holding meetings to understand the business operation in India. Moreover, I am also exploring the Indian traditions, culture and motifs, so that I can understand the philosophy behind the Indian fashion, then only I will be in position to start a venture here. Frankly speaking many of my business colleagues have already worked in India and are running their business quiet well, so I feel its worth and yes I am ready to explore the Indian market.
One strong point and weak point that you feel the global fashion market is going through at present?
The strong point is, people are changing their mindset and now they prefer buying good products. I am romantic and confident that people are thinking about ‘individuality’ and that has led to attitude towards the approach of ‘buy less, buy better’. But the negative aspect of the market is the volume of products the market is flooded with. The show off culture is ruining it and I feel that needs to be handled with care.
In 2012, you worked as a magician to revive the casual brand Superdry, when they had almost lost the market? What was your approach?
Well, as I said, for me understanding the reason behind everything that is happening is very important. At that time also, when Superdry had lost almost all its market share, I was proposed to work with the label. Again I started with the scratch, I tried to understand, what the brand was all about, their fashion philosophy and how they operate in the market. And then keeping that in mind, I focused on younger generation as the customer and introduced with the unique line, and as we showcased it as London week it received great review and helped the brand to revive in the market.