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Tuesday, October 27, 2020

Milan Fashion: Marni avenges lockdown with global video

Here's everything that happened at the Milan Fashion Week on Friday which mostly witnessed the women's collection for Spring Summer 2021.

By: AP | Milan | September 26, 2020 3:15:27 pm
A model wears a creation as part of the Sportmax 2021 women's spring-summer ready-to-wear collection during the Milan's fashion week in Milan, Italy. (Photo: AP)

Milan Fashion Week continued in disjointed discombobulated style for the third day on Friday veering from the physical to the digital with an uneasy eye fixed on the economic damage wrought by a coronavirus.

Some highlights from Fridays shows of mostly women’s collection for Spring  Summer 2021:

FRANCESCA LIBERATORE

A model wears a creation as part of the Francesco Liberatore 2021 women’s spring-summer ready-to-wear collection during Milan’s fashion week. (Photo: AP)

With the luxury market hitting new lows Francesca Liberatore chose full disruption of the shows are cycled. She auctioned off her collection of exclusive one-off pieces at the end of the live runway show donating the proceeds to charity.

It was a creative need in this historic moment Liberatore said of the auction while acknowledging the dire straits that small brands like hers are navigating amid plummeting sales.

Bright prints were taken from artworks she created during Italy’s strict lockdown _ some of which were also included in the auction They appeared on silk dresses and colourful leggings and swimsuits Each new look in the 30piece collection was announced by the solemn tone of a gong ringing.

She auctioned off her collection of exclusive one-off pieces at the end of the live runway show donating the proceeds to charity. (Photo: AP)

A sheer black drop-waist dress with neon green piping details fetched 700 euros while a silk print shirt over a black slit skirt went for 2000 euros Proceeds are going to the Golfini Rossi charitable association which works in Tanzania.

ALSO READ | New mom Ashley Graham returns to the runway with Milan Fashion Week, pumps milk backstage

MARNIFESTO MESSAGE OF FREEDOM SENT ROUND THE GLOBE

Renzo Rosso, left, and Marni creative director Francesco Risso pose after a screening of a Videos project for Milan Fashion Week. (Photo: AP)

Marni creative director Francesco Risso avenged the coronavirus lockdown with his latest collection sending 48 newly created looks to the four corners of the Earth where friends and collaborators of the fashion house donned them for a film montage.

The resulting project dubbed Manifesto and presented virtually during Milan Fashion Week put the clothing on streets and in homes from Los Angeles to Paris Detroit to Dakar London to Tokyo _ answering a question that often hangs in the air after runway shows Who would wear this and where
So a man wearing a leather jacket handpainted graffiti-style showed up in a convenience store and woman in a half black half white coat stops to tap keys on a shopping mall piano and youth walked city streets in a mirror version of a striped basketball shirt In the finale players _ not models _ stand on traffic islands in garments linked by striping details.

That has been the biggest challenge To create a space that is metaphysical of course where we can be together Risso said in a video interview ahead of the virtual unveiling.

The lockdown Risso said instantly interrupted the Marni creative process which he described as very sensorial and tactile characterized by pieces passing from one hand to the other while inspiring new ways of creating People were dyeing things in bathtubs or painting and draping in their homes Risso said I was impressed how every member of the team adapted that moment into new exploration.

Making fashion is a collective work But this time more than usual Somehow the anarchy about it the devotion to freedom and self-expression has been central to the work Risso said.

The designer invited employees and some journalists to watch the video in a Milan theatre He was joined by Renzo Rosso the Diesel brand creator who invested in Marni in 2013 Wearing protective masks the two shared a celebratory embrace at the end

VERSACE RECREATION

People walk past a giant screen streaming Versace fashion live show, during Milan’s fashion week in Milan. (Photo: AP)

Models for Donatella Versace’s latest coed collection walked through the ruins of a fallen submerged civilization _ its own Medusa logo having fallen to the seafloor amid crumbling ionic columns Its a pretty apt metaphor for a global crisis that is expected to leave the world changed in very fundamental ways.

Instead of the Medusa Versace chose as the starfish as the motif of the season a hopeful symbol of self-regeneration. The collection itself was upbeat _ and Versace included models of all shapes a recent runway trend.

Amid the rubble the collection provided optimistic bursts of colours _ green pink and yellow The female silhouette showed off legs and midriffs with joyful ruffled miniskirts or tightly pleated sheath dresses that fall into a frothy wave of the ruffle.

Men wore muscle hugging knitwear in vertical stripes and starfish colour detailing paired with comfortable matching Bermudas or amply fitting suits with bright printed shirts Colorful striped ties were tied around the waist in an office-be-damned style.

Versace originally planned a runway show with media buyers and celebrities present but opted to keep the doors closed due to health concerns generated by the virus Fashion house employees instead took seats on the topped columns for the live broadcast.

In a statement, Versace said that all employees at the Milan headquarters and the Novara production facility have been offered regular and free coronavirus swab tests You have often heard me saying that the people who work at Versace are like an extended family to me And one worries and takes care of his family Versace said in a statement.

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