The expectations were high, in the wake of a spectacular opening show by Aneeth Arora of Pero, but the rest of Day One of the Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week turned out to be quite humdrum. With shows by Anupamaa Dayal and Samant Chauhan that failed to impress, the only acts that struck home were by the label Huemn and designer Rimzim Dadu. The closing show, featuring Ashish N Soni, Rajesh Pratap Singh and Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna, saw the designers stick to their tried and tested formulas.
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Rimzim Dadu, who has made a name for herself with her technique of blending technology and sharp silhouettes by using re-engineered fabric, presented a collection that was futuristic, to say the least. An interplay on negative and positive space, Dadu’s collection was heavy on the use of dramatic silhouettes, overblown sleeves, cutwork jackets, tunics and a space-agey take on the sari — all made with handmade chiffon, metallic cords and metal wires. Metallic hues — Dadu’s favourite — in shades of lavender, black, silver grey, teal and red dominated the collection. One also saw the presence of lace making and stencilling for embellishment. The show had an element of virtual reality, as artist Harshvardhan Kadam painted the background, live, with a Google Tilt Brush.
Designer duo Pranav Mishra and Shyma Shetty — the names behind Huemn — have always pushed the envelop on the ramp, as far as addressing social issues is concerned. They have earlier talked about gender fluidity and Islamophobia; this time, they chose to address the conflict in Kashmir. Photographs by Azaan Shah and Mark Hanauer were reproduced by digital print on sweatshirts with extra long sleeves, dresses with high slits and shirts, embellished with sequins. The collection is an extension of the one that the duo showcased in September at the Milan Fashion Week. One saw a lot more flare, frills and pleats in their clothes. Beige, blue and black dominated the collection, while one saw an odd red poncho as well.