(From far left) A design from Rahul Mishra’s collection; one of the creations of Anamika Khanna
Even though it was a dry, muggy Friday evening, the Shah Jehan hall at Taj Palace in Delhi was rain-swept. Designer Rahul Mishra’s collection at the FDCI India Couture Week 2016, “Monsoon Diaries”, brought to the ramp, his visual diary of everything the rain brings with it. Saris, trench coats, long jackets, peplum blouses with long skirts were strewn with flowers of all shades. White, blue, aqua, pink and black narrated the monsoon story as did the hand-embroidered peacocks. Our favourite was the dupatta with the big and bold red flowers — the ones that line the streets after a night of heavy showers.
Careless Whisper
References play a key role in creative endeavours and at The Leela Palace in Delhi, Anamika Khanna alluded to a string of them, unabashedly devoid of subtlety, for her collection, “When Time Stood Still”. Against the nostalgic backdrop of Frank and Nancy Sinatra and Elvis Presley, Khanna immortalised the timeless spell of ballroom romance through her trademark sculpted, albeit minimalistic, silhouettes. Her template was consistent with contemporised Indian traditional wear — from over-sized saris, topped with cape-like coats, to fuller skirts and long-trailed anarkalis and lehengas. What held the court was her understanding of organza and georgette, and the fabrics’ delicate union with embroideries as intricate as zardosi, kalamkari and dori, and even the Calico-inspired threadwork. The impact was oxymoronic — understated, yet potent — especially when paired with a colour palette, from softer ivories and pastels like oyster pink and rose, jade and powder blue, to black and zesty mustard and red.