‘It’s not just about fashion, it’s about storytelling’: Designer Raghavendra Rathore on influence of culture

What is your latest collection all about?

Our latest collection, ‘India in London’ is a homage to the stylish men and women who travelled to Europe in the 1920s, dressed smartly in the Western style that was much praised by the Europeans. The designs incorporate traditional ideas and colours of the open desert, encapsulating the true essence of chic India that it once was.

You emphasise a lot on culture. How does culture influence your designs?

Culture is the bedrock of design. It provides a distinct identity to our creations and a context that resonates with people. In our designs, the culture of old-world India is a recurring idea. It’s not just about fashion, it’s about storytelling and keeping traditions alive.

Our design process begins with a deep dive into the cultural ethos of old-world India. From architecture to textiles, folklore to royalty, everything is a potential source of inspiration. This exploration shapes the narrative of the collection. The inspirations are then translated into design elements and fabric manipulations, resulting in a collection that embodies the narrative.

We see the rise of so many designers. What do you think keeps you relevant to the changing times?

I believe that the key to remaining relevant in a rapidly changing industry is innovation with preservation. Our designs are steeped in tradition, yet, they carry a contemporary appeal. By maintaining the core ethos of our brand, which is rooted in heritage and craftsmanship, and adapting it to modern aesthetics, we’ve managed to stay distinct and relevant.

How has men’s couture changed over the years?

Men’s couture has evolved tremendously, from strictly traditional to more exploratory and individualistic. There has been a fusion of the classic with the contemporary and an acceptance of the unconventional. Our label also reflects this transformation, while still retaining the essence of classic elegance.

 

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What is your dream now and how has it changed over the years?

My dream has always been to showcase the best of Indian heritage on a global platform. Over the years, the dream has evolved to also include creating sustainable fashion and providing employment to local artisans. It’s about giving back to society, which has become a management mantra.

Do you think fashion sensibilities have become much more nuanced for many?

Indeed, fashion sensibilities have become more nuanced with consumers now valuing sustainability, authenticity, and individualism. There’s a shift from trend-following to personal style and from fast fashion to thoughtful purchasing.

What is a classic combination that you think can never go wrong?

A classic combination that can never go wrong, in my opinion, is a well-tailored Bandhgala suit paired with Jodhpuri trousers; of course, handmade. It is the epitome of regal elegance and sophistication.

Who do you think does justice to your designs when it comes to celebrities from the film industry?

Saif Ali Khan has always carried our designs with utmost grace. His persona resonates well with the brand’s ethos.

Your favourite creation and why?

My favourite creation would be the Jodhpuri Bandhgala suit. It embodies my design philosophy of infusing modern silhouettes with the regal heritage of Jodhpur.

A memory that is close to your heart?

A memory close to my heart is the first time I saw my designs at Oscar de la Renta, live on the runway at a major fashion week in New York.

Seeing my model carry the designs on the runway was a strong confidence-building moment for me.

Fashion advice for men when stepping out?

The best advice to men stepping out would be to always prioritise comfort along with style. The dressing should be an extension of one’s personality.

 

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Who do you think would make for the best showstopper?

The best showstopper, in my opinion, would be a person who carries him or herself with grace and confidence, and who can resonate with the ethos of my brand. It’s not about the fame, it’s about the fit.

A word for young designers

To young designers, I would say, find your unique voice and stay true to it. Learn from traditions but don’t hesitate to create your own path. Success in fashion is a mix of creativity, persistence, and authenticity, and make it your business to understand technology.

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