How ‘kaata wash’ helps preserve the delicate Dhakai jamdani sari

Dr Khonika advises that the best option is to contact the seller and send the sari to them so they can take care of it with a kaata wash, which works like magic.

DISCLAIMER: This article is based on information from the public domain and/or the experts we spoke to.

But is water the biggest enemy of a dhakai jamdani?

Sneha Yadav, Fashion Consultant, Brand & Image Strategist, and NIFT alumna, says jamdani certainly deserves specialised care, but she would be cautious about calling water the textile’s enemy or claiming there is only one acceptable way to clean it.

“From the point of view of the fabric and the design, the care needed really depends on how the individual sari is made. The kind of fibre it has, the yarn, the dyes, the weave, the zari or any decorations and the finishing,” she says, adding, “The real problem is not water by itself, and a careful and soft wash can be very different.”

 

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What is the Kaata washing technique?

Traditionally, an authentic handloom Dhakai jamdani is cleaned through a specialised process known as ‘kaata wash’.

Explaining what the technique is all about, Dileep Kumar Goli, CEO, Missamma says, “The name is derived from the claw-like clips, known as kaata, that are used to pin the sari onto a bamboo frame to stretch the fabric. This ensures that the fabric and the threads used for the weaves and the motifs stay flat and taut without sagging, thereby preventing any shrinkage or loosening of threads by any pulling during the cleaning process.”

Going into details, he adds:

• The first step in cleaning a jamdani is inspecting the fabric and its weave for damage, such as worn-out threads, which can be repaired.
• Natural pH-neutral cleaning agents, such as Reetha, are used along with water to gently handwash the stretched fabric.
• As an additional measure, a soft cloth soaked in rice starch liquor is used to dampen the sari, adding a soft crispness to the fabric without making it feel too harsh on the skin. The starch also gives the fabric a sheen, making the saree look new.
• The fabric is then rinsed through water. Here, care is taken to ensure there is no twisting or wringing, as the sari has to be air-dried.

Is kaata wash the only way of cleaning it?

As per Dr Khonika, kaata wash is the best way to clean a dhakai jamdani sari. Although Sneha agrees, she also says it isn’t the only right way for every Jamdani. “I would not say that washing by hand or using dry cleaning is always wrong. For a Jamdani that’s expensive, it is best to learn about the specific fabric first and then follow the care instructions from the weaver or from a professional who works with handwoven fabrics.”

But if washing at home, Nabanita Ghosh, Co-founder & Director, Abritee, recommends doing it only when necessary, that too in cold water with a mild, pH-neutral liquid detergent, without rubbing, scrubbing, twisting or wringing.

“Handloom Dhakai Jamdani saris should never be machine-washed,” she warns, adding, “The saree should be dried in a shaded area with good ventilation, and, for storage, it is to be kept completely clean and dry, preferably without heavy starch, and wrapped in soft muslin or breathable cotton.”

A delicate Dhakai Jamdani sari needs careful cleaning and storage to protect its fine weave and intricate motifs. (Image Source: Unsplash)

How you can reach out to weavers for kaata washing

The best way to send your Jamdani for cleaning is to take it to the seller you bought it from. He will ship it to the weavers for cleaning and washing.

The entire process, Dileep says, could take a few days to a week, depending on the logistics involved, as most Jamdanis are made around Dhaka and Narayanganj in Bangladesh.

Talking about the costs, Dileep adds, “Given the specialised nature of kaata washing and the logistics involved, the cost for getting a Jamdani cleaned could start from a few hundred rupees – which involves only washing – to a couple of thousand bucks if any restoration or repair work is also required. Costs may also vary depending on the fabric used and its age, as kaata washing of antique Jamdanis will cost more.”

Storage tips for a zari handloom Dhakai Jamdani

Nabanita advises never to treat a Dhakai Jamdani like an ordinary cotton sari, as its fine motifs and delicate weave need minimal mechanical stress.

Sharing ways to store the sari, she says, “Always fold the saree with the zari side facing inward. This minimises friction against other surfaces and protects the delicate metallic threads from losing their sheen over time. It’s a small adjustment, but something that can make a significant difference in preserving the beauty and radiance of a Dhakai Jamdani for years to come.”

Moreover, Dileep advises avoiding plastic or polythene bags and instead using bags made of breathable fabrics such as cotton to store a Jamdani. This also allows the saree’s fabric to breathe.

DISCLAIMER: This article is based on information from the public domain and/or the experts we spoke to.