This is an archive article published on July 5, 2023

Charles de Vilmorin: A new design icon who is being compared to young Yves Saint Laurent

Charles de Vilmorin's gender-fluid aesthetic is changing the space of high-end fashion, which has increasingly remained a female domain, mainly focused on bridal couture, evening dresses and high heels.

charles de vilmorinHis gender-fluid aesthetic is changing the space of high-end fashion. (Source: Charles de Vilmorin/ Instagram)
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Charles de Vilmorin: A new design icon who is being compared to young Yves Saint Laurent
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The 26-year-old French fashion designer Charles de Vilmorin is making a name for himself at the Paris haute couture week this year.

His gender-fluid aesthetic is changing the space of high-end fashion, which has increasingly remained a female domain, mainly focused on bridal couture, evening dresses and high heels.

“The others might not necessarily do it, but I have to do it,” de Vilmorin told AFP ahead of his first live runway show during the official fashion week on Monday.

Young designers like him are slowly incorporating menswear looks for fashion weeks. “In real life, there are a lot of men who wear haute couture. It’s not a desire to do things differently, it’s sort of normal — it’s extremely natural for me,” he said.

 

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A post shared by Charles de Vilmorin (@charlesdevilmorin) 

Unisex just means that a piece can be worn by a woman as well as a man. It’s more a question of casting than of clothing,” de Vilmorin added.

His couture collection is grounded in black and white, with pieces featuring his signature artwork. “This show is the store of the pressure of creation,” he told Vogue Runway. “It starts with a very simple white dress, like a white paper when you start to create,” he continued. The designer further said that his collection addresses the questions he asks himself while creating–whether to show something sharp and black or something “crazy with more colour.”

Who is Charles de Vilmorin?

 

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A post shared by Charles de Vilmorin (@charlesdevilmorin) 

The designer–with his patrician profile and flip of sandy blonde hair–is being compared to a young Yves Saint Laurent, whose work has influenced him.

Much like YSL, de Vilmorin is a scion of a well-to-do French family. His mother is an art teacher, and his father is a ‘fashion-obsessed’ financier. A graduate of the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, De Vilmorin launched his debut collection on Instagram, attracting the attention of many prominent designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, who went on to sponsor his entry into the couture lineup. “It’s because of him that I was on the calendar,” he told Elle.

“When I launched my brand, I didn’t really think about the fact that the world was on lockdown. It was a risk, but it was not calculated,” he said about starting his eponymous label in 2020.

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De Vilmorin was even named the creative director of Rochas, but his stint lasted only two years. “I got there very early, without too much experience. It was the best school to get my feet wet and learn how to build a collection and bring it to life,” he told AFP. He admitted it was challenging to revive a dusty brand, but he is “relieved” to be working for himself again.

As for his own career, “a lot of beautiful things are coming,” he said.

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