The 26th edition of Amazon India Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2016 packs in not just a new venue but a well-curated mix of talks, exhibits and 30 shows where new labels will share the spotlight with veterans. Textile specialist Sanjay Garg opens the week today and designer Anamika Khanna readies to showcase her first ready-to-wear line on day three. The grand finale of the five-day event will see 16 of the country’s most well-known designers present their take on Banarasi weaves. Here’s a look at the new season of fashion.
After a successful runway show at the Paris Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2016, designer Rahul Mishra will participate at AIFW, albeit in a novel manner. Pieces from his Paris collection titled “Fourth Dimension” will be displayed at the French Embassy in Delhi on October 11, in the form of an installation. Ten out of the 33 garments will be donned by dummies. While the collection is all about the world of 3D, Mishra will collaborate with numerous artists for the event. “I want to share what I have made for Paris and get feedback on it. I want people to touch and feel the clothes, which is why they will be worn by mannequins,” says Mishra, who became father to a baby girl last week. (Also read: Designer Vaishali talks about her AIFW collection)
The grand finale of this edition is all set to make an impact with 16 designers coming together to present their take on Banarasi weaves. Each of the designers will present three ensembles inspired by the iconic city in tones of blue, yellow, green, red, cream and black. Textiles will range from opulent brocades and silk to handloom cotton. The designers who are part of the grand finale include Abraham & Thakore, Anupama Dayal, Ashish Soni, JJ Valaya, Manish Arora, Namrata Joshipura, Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Rajesh Pratap. Most designers are looking to contemporise the traditional look of Banarasi weaves. While Abraham & Thakore are working with brocades, designer Anupama Dayal will be targeting the younger audience. “I want to take Banarasi weaves out of the wedding finery and make it more body conscious and light,” says Dayal.
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Credited for bringing handloom saris back into the limelight, designer Sanjay Garg of Raw Mango is set for his biggest show yet. He opens this edition of fashion week by presenting a collection from his eponymous label that pays an ode to the Mashru fabric. “The weaving of Mashru started during the Ottoman Empire and travelled to India via the Gulf to Gujarat more than a century ago. However, all weaving stopped in the late ’50s and we have revived this long-forgotten craft,” says Garg, adding, “We have worked on technical innovations in the weave for a modern look. I was also inspired by the Abaya dresses worn in the Gulf.” (Also read: Designer Rahul Mishra to present a glimpse of Paris at AIFW 2016)
Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) has changed the venue of its prêt week from Pragati Maidan to NSIC Grounds in Okhla. The vast, bare ground now boasts two Main Stage Areas (MSAs), five lounges, three restaurants, a food court and a stall area. “We were very happy with Pragati Maidan but due to some construction there and the barricades on the road, it would have been inconvenient for those attending,” says Sunil Sethi, President, FDCI. There will also be an off-site show at Imperial Hotel, where designer duo Shivan & Narresh will present their collection.
While Delhi boy Dhruv Kapur has been showcasing at Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai for six seasons now, this will be his first time at the FDCI event. Known for his fluid silhouettes, Kapur’s label DRVV is one of the few designers Delhi has been pining over. Others include linen sari queen Anavila Misra, minimally chic Lovebirds and edgy designs from ikai by Ragini Ahuja. DRVV’s untitled collection, Kapur says, is all about subverting ideas and flipping them over, while Lovebirds focuses on balancing functionality with aesthetics.
She’s the queen of couture and now Kolkata-based designer Anamika Khanna is all set to make her debut in prêt. But the designer admits she won’t be straying too far from her signature style. “This collection isn’t red carpet but it isn’t causal either. It is in-between the two styles. The look is edgy but the silhouettes are all about comfort and have a lounge feel to them,” says Khanna, who will present her line on day three.
A series of talks titled “Fashion Forward”, starting from this edition, will have experts discuss and dissect trends, aesthetics and sensibilities. Look out for Catriona Macnab, head of fashion, WGSN , a trend forecasting agency, who will give an insight into 2016 spring-summer global trends for women on day three.