Keeping true to his forte of drama, bling and Bollywood, designer Manish Malhotra kicked off the 20th edition of the Lakme Fashion Week winter-festive 2019 in Mumbai, Tuesday night. Mumbai-based Malhotra presented ‘Maahrumysha’, a collection that seemed to be born out of everything Bollywood. The mammoth collection, which featured both womenswear and menswear, was showcased off-site, at Famous Studios in Mahalaxmi. Many from the Hindi film industry turned up to support their go-to costume designer. From Karan Johar in the front row, wearing a creation from ‘Maahrumysha’, to Khushi Kapoor, Ishaan Khatter, Karisma Kapoor, Mouni Roy, Athiya Shetty, Chitrangada Singh, Amrita Arora, Mouni Roy, Mrunal Thakur, Aparshakti Khurana, Yash and Avanti Birla, and Pooja Hegde, all lined up to see Malhotra’s new creations. To top it off, Katrina Kaif was the showstopper, another favourite of Malhotra.
The collection, meanwhile, seemed to be a reflection of the current scenario in Bollywood. There were overtly-embellished outfits in all shades of gold, equivalent of the big, starry tent-pole films, which are seemingly not working these days. To counter them, there were some stand-alone outfits with little drama, but high on style and wearability — equivalent of their indie film cousins, in film parlance.
Even though this was a pret, winter-festive edition, Malhotra couldn’t stay away from his love for lehengas. However, there was a braver, edgy attempt with bralette blouses, balconette corsets and off-shoulder versions. But sadly nothing to write home about. For women, there were gowns, dresses, and saris, while for men, achkans, jackets and kurtas in shades of beige, gold and moss green, with sporadic bursts of red, royal blue and maroon. While many of Malhotra’s counterparts are shifting towards creating light-weight outfits, which are high on wearability and function, the designer still seems to believe in the adage ‘the bigger, the better’.
With voluminous skirts, pleated trails and trains, and blouses with stiff sleeves, we wonder how does one sit and walk and manipulate these garments to do your bidding. One saw a lot of heavy embroidery, sequin sheathing, ivory threadwork, web floral motifs and lots of layering and drapes in fabrics of silk, cotton, wool and velvet.
Malhotra also invoked animal motifs, which were embroidered on jackets and bandhgalas as shoulder and pocket patches. Kaif wore a bottle green ensemble, which had a heavily embroidered skirt, and a blouse that had a train stemming from it, which doubled up as a slim wrap. The red velvet shoes, worn by the men, though, are a must-have item for the coming season.
Lakme Fashion Week is being held at The St. Regis Mumbai till August 25
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