From Indus Valley to the Ajanta cave paintings, mapping the evolution of bandhani

Artisans from remote Kutch villages are the true craft masters, tying each knot with precision to ensure uniformity and symmetry. This labour-intensive craft can take days, weeks, or even months to complete.

 

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A glimpse into history

The craft has since evolved, with intricate designs and rich symbolism emerging from the Barmer and Jaisalmer regions of Rajasthan. Each region brings its unique touch to bandhani, from the simple dots in rural villages to the more sophisticated patterns of Jaipur, Jodhpur, and other cities. The colours, too, carry deep meaning—red represents a bride’s happiness, while yellow signifies maternity and the joys of new life.

The process of making bandhani

Crafting bandhani begins with wrinkle-free fabric, folded carefully and sketched with red chalk to outline the design. Skilled women, called “bandhanari,” then pick and tie the fabric using a small finger cap called “nuckliya”. The fabric undergoes multiple dye baths, starting with the lightest colour and gradually darkening, layering the intricate design. “The skill lies in tying thousands of tiny knots with complete symmetry, ensuring that the design unfolds perfectly,” said Arya.

Once the dyeing process is complete, the fabric is stretched, revealing the intricate patterns hidden beneath the knots.

A bandhej sari (Source: Wikimedia Commons)

Unlike mass-produced fabrics, true bandhani is all about the slight imperfections. “In real bandhani, no two dots are exactly alike,” Jain said. “That’s the mark of a hand-crafted piece.” In fact, the slight irregularities, the dots that don’t quite align, and the patterns that seem to dance across the fabric are what give authentic bandhani its charm.

Preserving a vanishing art

As machines replicate hand techniques and younger artisans seek more stable, lucrative jobs in cities, bandhani faces many challenges. Both Jain and Arya stressed the importance of revitalising this dying art. “Many artisans are ageing, and their children don’t want to continue the family tradition. There’s an urgent need to preserve vintage bandhani patterns that artisans now shy away from,” Jain said.

 

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“Government intervention and support are crucial for preserving the craft. Small-scale industries need resources, technical support, and capital to survive, and without these, the future of bandhani looks uncertain,” Arya said.

However, there’s growing hope. Designers are reviving bandhani, and celebrities are showcasing it at public events. Influential families, like the Ambanis, continue to embrace bandhani for weddings and celebrations, keeping the craft alive in Indian culture.  A Gharchola Bandhani sari, for example, is a must-have for a bride, while the Peela Bandhani dupatta is traditionally worn by mothers after the birth of a child, Jain said.

What you can do to support bandhani

For those who wish to support this ancient craft, Jain and Arya have tips. 

Learning to recognise the difference between real and fake bandhani is the first step. Authentic bandhani has a crushed, tactile feel, with each knot tied by hand. The slight imperfections in the dots and the unevenness in the patterns are telltale signs of its authenticity. Second, appreciate the labour-intensive nature of the process and be willing to pay a fair price for true craftsmanship.

For those who wish to support this ancient craft, Jain and Arya offer some advice (Source: Wikimedia Commons)

“Own bandhani with pride. These are pieces of history, traditions, and artisanship. By wearing bandhani, you are not only celebrating fashion but also supporting an entire ecosystem of artisans and keeping a timeless craft alive,” Jain said.

With continued support, this ancient craft can survive and thrive, ensuring that the art of bandhani will be passed down to future generations for many centuries to come.