Probably the most anticipated day of the Amazon India Fashion Week (AIFW), Friday was all about the boys. Two menswear shows, 11 designers and a horde of male models on the ramp — Day Three of the Autumn-Winter 2016 edition of AIFW saw all kinds of silhouettes, fabrics, colours and embroideries take centre stage. From veterans Rohit Bal and Rajesh Pratap Singh to up-and-coming labels such as Antar Agni and Divyam Mehta, menswear was revisited and reinvented. TALK lists top three trends:
SHADES OF WARMTH
Warmer tones dominated the colour palette in both the shows. Ujjwal Dubey of Antar Agni used red extensively in his collection titled “The Red In Us”, while Divyam Mehta nailed it with the use of shades of green and brown in his range, rightfully called “Into the Woods”. The last show of the night comprising eight designers had a fixed colour theme in black, white and ivory. While the likes of Ashish N Soni and Troy Costa stuck to the base colours, designer Rajesh Pratap Singh took his current colour muse — golden — for a walk on the runway in this joint show too, albeit mere glimpses. JJ Valaya’s men too wore bandhgala jackets over anarkali kurtas, which had a tinge of gold in them. Stay warm this winter.
Interestingly, all designers experimented with the silhouette of the bottoms (can’t just call them pants, after all). Divyam Mehta’s samurai trousers (read baggy) and carrot pants (pleated, harem pants); Antar Agni’s crotchless, slouchy pants; Rohit Kamra’s breeches with metallic studs on the side; Rajesh Pratap’s loose pants; and Rohit Bal’s long black lungis are just some of the examples of how the traditional concept of the “trousers” is changing. Also, often seen on the ramp were ankle-length pants, paired with formal dinner jackets. Ditch those traditional pairs already, boys.
While nothing beats the classic plain black tux look, it’s time to embrace the intricate, sharper details in clothes. Embroideries, sequins and prints are all the rage this winter, it seems. Designer Varun Bahl’s fascination with the floral manifested itself on white dinner jackets with dainty flowers, and black cocktail jackets with floral embroidery on them. Ashish N Soni returned with the polka dots on formal jackets with this range, while Rohit Bal added black roses as latkan on the lungis, and made scarves of them. Divyam Mehta, on the other hand, brought to the fore shibori patterns, wood block prints and kantha work; and Rohit Kamra introduced half-sleeved jackets in jaali work .