Navigating Seoul with Sujin Ssi: beyond K-pop and K-drama, a city brimming with culture and tradition

Why am I telling you all this? Because most of what I know of Korea, and what follows below, has been informed by her insights and opinions. A resident of Paju, a city around 33 km from Seoul, Miss Kim speaks English with an American accent. She couldn’t answer why she has an American accent, but she said that most Koreans don’t speak English, and if they do, they don’t speak it well. Her father, on the other hand, always encouraged her to learn English – a skill that comes in handy as a tour guide.

Conversations with Miss Kim over a cup of coffee – the first of which we had at Terarosa, one of the most popular Korean coffee outlets – ranged from climate change to the mandatory military service in the country and relations with North Korea. She informed us that lately, the salaries being offered during military duty are higher than they used to be, prompting more people to choose it as a career.

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At the Gyeongbokgung palace in Seoul wearing Hanboks (Express Photo)

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At Myeongdong, a large shopping area of Seoul (Express Photo)

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Traditional vegan temple food at Sanchon, Insa Dong (Express Photo)

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At the Eland Cruise terminal in Yeouido, Seoul (Express Photo)

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A skyscraper in Seoul (Express Photo)

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At the Gyeongbokgung palace in Seoul (Express Photo)

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At Insa Dong, a street full of eateries and handicraft shops (Express Photo)

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The Seoul skyline as seen from the Han River (Express Photo)

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At the Gyeongbokgung palace in Seoul wearing Hanboks (Express Photo)

Coffee was not hard to find in Seoul as almost every third shop turned out to be a cafe, and hence, there was always time to sit down for a chat. In another conversation at Myeongdong – a large shopping area packed with the finest international brands and local street food – Miss Kim spoke of Japan’s rule over Korea for 35 years. Now, the relations are peaceful, she said. In a lighter vein, she added, most Koreans love Japanese food but the historical grudge shows through during football matches.

Myeongdong was our introduction to Seoul. Our first stop was the Yoogane restaurant, which is best known for its chicken galbi (or chopped chicken marinated in a chilli-sweet sauce served with noodles) that is cooked right in the middle of your table. They also have vegetarian options, and it is an experience one shouldn’t miss. Miss Kim, who was used to her Indian clients “always eating a lot”, had ordered hearty portions for each member, and was surprised to see us struggling to finish them.

With a promise of better appetites later in the day, we made our way to a skin care clinic where we were treated to the much-anticipated K-beauty experience. For the uninitiated, Korean skincare is sought after worldwide, especially ever since the rise of K-dramas with glassy-skinned, unblemished heroines. If you are anything like me, uncomfortable with a stranger’s touch, my advice would be to surrender for an hour of massages, exquisite scents and relaxation. The treatments range from anything between 64,000 won (~ Rs 4,000) to 2,40,000 won (~ Rs 14,000) and usually take up to 60-80 minutes. The experience seemed to bring us back to life after a seven-hour red-eye flight. And Miss Kim – an actress by profession before she became a tour guide – at her dramatic best, gasped and showered us with compliments as we emerged with dewy, visibly brighter skins.

Myeongdong, a large shopping area in Seoul (Express Photo)

For the sake of brevity, I will spare you all the details of the itinerary and stick to the best parts. Travelling through Seoul makes you feel like you have landed in a futuristic metropolis, with glittery skyscrapers and swanky cars, ranging from Genesis and Maybach to Hyundai and Tesla. In many ways, Seoul is like an iron fortress, but it brims with culture and tradition. Remnants of Seoul’s past, when it was called Hanyang under the Joseon Dynasty, such as parts of the city wall that once enclosed the capital, giant gates that were used for entry, and palaces, still dot the city.

Seoul is split into two by the Han River into Gangbuk (which literally translates to north of the river) and Gangnam (south of the river), which is the more posh, affluent area, and the inspiration behind Psy’s wildly-popular song Gangnam Style. The tallest building in South Korea, the Lotte Tower, which has 123 floors and an observation deck at the top, can also be found in Gangnam.

On our second day in Seoul, we witnessed this confluence of the new and old. The morning began with a trip to a rental shop, where we quickly changed into Hanboks (traditional Korean garments) and made our way to the Gyeongbokgung Palace, the grandest of the Joseon Dynasty palaces in Seoul.

Terarosa is one of the most popular Korean coffee outlets (Express Photo)

An interesting feature of the palace, and a testament to old beliefs, is the presence of Japsang figures on the roof. These monkey-like figures, followed by a dragon head at the end, are believed to ward off evil spirits and prevent fires (a fear in the olden days since buildings were made of wood). The Japsang figures can also be seen on modern buildings such as the Blue House or Cheong Wa Dae, the presidential residence, which was built in 1991 and is now open to the public as the current President moved the seat of power to the Yongsan district. On our visit to Blue House, Miss Kim told us about another architectural marvel: Korean traditional houses, known as Hanok, which were built without nails, so that they could be easily assembled and disassembled.

After the palace, we moved on to Insa Dong, a street crammed with art galleries, Korean eateries, and traditional handicraft and artefact shops. Hidden away in the back alleys here is Sanchon, a vegan temple food restaurant that promises to treat your palate with a wide variety of simple dishes, cooked with minimal spices, yet each with a unique taste. It’s perhaps the best place to try out different Korean vegetables and herbs, kimchi and flower teas.

Next on our itinerary was Yeouido—a large island in the Han River and the financial and political centre of Seoul. It is accessible from the mainland by a six-lane bridge – one of the 31 bridges over the Han River. It is home to the Yeouido Park, which has been built on reclaimed land. Korea has actively launched land reclamation projects over the years – the most recognised of those is perhaps the Incheon airport, which is touted to be among the best airports in the world.

Yeouido also houses the National Assembly, the Korean Broadcasting System (KBS) headquarters, and several other finance and trade institutions. A cruise along the Han River from Yeouido offers a glimpse of the Seoul skyline with its towering buildings and the dome-shaped Assembly. Our day ended with a sumptuous Italian dinner atop the 54th floor of the Federation of Korean Industries tower, shrouded in clouds.

At the Eland Cruise Terminal in Yeouido (Express Photo)

The third, and final day, in Seoul, before we moved on to Yeosu – a picturesque coastal city – was dedicated to Hallyu and everything Korean. Hallyu refers to the ‘Korean wave’, or the increasing popularity of Korean culture in recent times. Even for those who are not obsessed with BTS or Black Pink, as most K-pop fans tend to be, the HiKR Ground promises a day of fun. Backed by advanced tech and Extended Reality, HiKR offers a range of activities for visitors. There are replicas of a subway train or a laundromat, fixed with studio lights and a music system, where visitors can recreate K-pop music videos or indulge in a game that tests how well you can follow the choreography on the screen.

Whether you want to visit the site of your favourite K-drama, soak in the heritage wearing a Hanbok, treat yourself to Soju at a bar on Itaewon Street, shop the best of brands or handicrafts, or simply wander through the maze of skyscrapers – Seoul has something to offer for everyone.

The city extends its hospitality to one and all. Koreans, we met on our trip, were polite, well-mannered, and always ready to help. We found hushed silence inside public transport and ordered queues at tourist sites. Miss Kim is an embodiment of this Korean discipline. Like a schoolteacher, she would direct the entire group to chime ‘Annyeonghaseyo’ when we met someone new, and ‘Kamsahamnida’ (Thank you) to our servers and drivers. If we went to a busy restaurant, Miss Kim would be quick to jump up and serve us herself. Grateful for the warmth shown by her, even on the rainiest of days, I dedicate this travelogue to her. Kamsahamnida Sujin Ssi!

The writer was on a familiarisation trip to South Korea, sponsored by the Korea Tourism Organization, under the Ministry of Culture and Tourism of the Republic of Korea.