In Fort Kochi, a blaze eats into a Jewish legacy: what the Koder House held

The historic Koder House in Fort Kochi was severely damaged in a fire that gutted its top floor. Who exactly were the Koders and how much of their heritage has now been lost?

Koder HouseAccording to Keralam’s fire service officers, it’s the top floor of the structure which caught fire, gutting its ancient roof and columns. (Special Arrangement)

The Koder House, a key heritage landmark in Fort Kochi which was functioning as a luxury hotel, was gutted in a major fire on September 29. The building, which is believed to have been first constructed during the Dutch invasion of Kochi (from 1663 to 1795), was later bought and renovated by SS Koder, the patriarch of a Paradesi Jew family of Fort Kochi in the 19th century.

While heritage experts from Kerala say that the exact year in which the structure was built cannot be ascertained due to lack of documentation, those who have visited and studied the building said that it is at least two to three centuries old.

“The building is at least two centuries old,” said former Mayor of Kochi and member of INTACH Keralam chapter KJ Sohan told The Indian Express.

Meanwhile, another expert, Bony Thomas dated the building back to three centuries. “The structure seems to have born the signs of at least 300 years of history,” Thomas told The Indian Express.

While the hotel’s website claimed that it was a Portuguese structure, historians and heritage experts say it is more recent.

Who were the Koders

While it is not known why the Dutch (who were in Kochi between 1663 and 1795) built the structure, SS Koder renovated and used it as his family home. “The Koders were Paradesi Jews or Jews who have immigrated from outside India. Most of the immigration of the Jewish community was from Spain and other countries in the Europe,” Sohan said.

Thomas, however, said that the Koders are believed to have migrated from Iraq. “The family’s roots can be traced back to West Asia,” he said. Most of the Paradesi Jews, unlike the Malabari Jews of Kochi, immigrated to either their parent countries or Israel in the 1950s. However, Koder’s family never left Fort Kochi, Sohan said. “The family’s members are buried in Kochi,” Sohan said.

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The Koders were known to be one of the richest families in Fort Kochi. One of the Koders, Samuel Koder worked as Cochin princely state’s Honorary Consul to the Netherlands.“Samuel Koder was the municipal chairman of Fort Kochi back in the day,” Sohan said. The family brought electricity to Kochi’s shores through the Cochin Electric Company. “They burnt coal and produced electricity and supplied (transmitted) it to most of Fort Kochi and Mattanchery islands,” Thomas said.

Sohan said that the Koders were also traders who had connections with the rest of the world. “They used to run a textile and crockery store, which doubled up as a luxury house store,” Sohan said. Thomas said that the Koders were the go to people for anything luxurious in Fort Kochi. “Before liberalisation, foreign goods were not available in Kerala or India. Koders imported many luxury items during this time and sold to the local populace,” Thomas said.

How was the structure unique?

While the Koder House was built by the Dutch and renovated by the Koders, it has a simple architecture with balconies. But the Koder House has a Guest House at its rear end. “The two structures are connected by a wooden bridge,” said Thomas, who has studied the structure closely. “The guest house was where the Koders used to house their entrepreneur and business friends from across the globe,” Thomas said.

Besides, the guest house has a courtyard where there is a small pond or Mikvah where Jewish holy or ritualistic bath is taken. “This must be the only such Mikvah in Ernakulam,” Thomas said. When contacted, Kerala’s fire service officers said that only the top floor of the Koder House was gutted in the fire as the flames were prevented from spreading to the nearby historic structures of the guest house with the Mikvah and the bridge.

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What did the Koder House fire ruin?

According to Keralam’s fire service officers, it’s the top floor of the structure which caught fire, gutting its ancient roof and columns. The Koder House is not just a historic structure, but it had many historical artefacts inside, KJ Sohan said. “The history of the Koders, their photographs and paintings were all in this building which went up in flames,” Sohan rued. Each of furniture and tapestry inside the Koder House were brought to the structure from across the world, he added. “Definitely, it is a major loss of a heritage building,” Sohan added.

The Indian Express reached out to the current owners of the Koder House, who were unavailable to comment on the extent of the damage the structure has suffered.

Nikhila Henry is an Assistant Editor at The Indian Express, based in Hyderabad. With a career spanning 17 years, she has established herself as an authoritative voice on South Indian affairs, specialising in the complex intersections of politics, education, and social justice. Experience & Career: Nikhila commenced her journalism career in 2007 as an education correspondent for The Times of India in Hyderabad,where she gained recognition for her coverage of student politics. Her professional trajectory includes a four-year tenure at The Hindu, where she focused on minority affairs and social welfare. In 2019, she took on a leadership role as the South Bureau Chief for The Quint, where she directed regional coverage across all five South Indian states. Her expansive career also includes a tenure at the BBC in New Delhi and contributions to prestigious international outlets such as The Sunday Times (London) and HuffPost India. Expertise & Focus Areas Nikhila’s reportage is marked by a deep-seated understanding of grassroots movements and institutional policy. Her core focus areas include: Regional Politics: Comprehensive analysis of the socio-political dynamics across South India. Education & Student Movements: Chronicling the evolution of Indian academics and the rise of youth activism. Minority Affairs: Rigorous reporting on the welfare, rights, and challenges facing marginalized communities. National Beat: Elevating regional stories to national prominence through investigative and on-ground reporting. Authoritativeness & Trust A respected figure in Indian media, Nikhila is not only a seasoned reporter but also an accomplished author and editor. She authored the critically acclaimed book The Ferment: Youth Unrest in India and edited Caste is Not a Rumour, a collection of writings by Rohith Vemula. Her dual background in daily news reporting and long-form authorship allows her to provide readers with a nuanced, historically-informed perspective on contemporary Indian society. Find all stories by Nikhila Henry here. ... Read More

 

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