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Unearthing History In The Sky Caves

Burial caves, stacked homes, or meditation caves - many stories find their home in the abandoned caves that abound in the mountains of Upper Mustang in Nepal

Most people embark on a Nepal voyage to scale the treacherous mountains or visit one of the many temples that abound in this small country. But in Mustang, the former Kingdom of Lo, which has been a part of the country since the 18th century, there are hushed whispers of a mysterious kind. In the Upper Mustang region, away from prying eyes, are 10,000 caves carved into the gorges that straddle River Kali Gandaki.

The sky caves of Nepal. Picture: Shutterstock The sky caves of Nepal. Picture: Shutterstock

History of Mustang

This region, preserved from the ravages of time owing to its status as a ‘forbidden kingdom’, was once cut off from China and had no access to foreign individuals from Nepal from 1962 until 1992, when travellers were once again permitted to visit the region. Once an independent kingdom with its monarchy, Mustang is unfortunately no longer immune to the vagaries of the world; its monarchy was disbanded in 2008. Nonetheless, it retains its cultural essence owing to limited tourism interference since it falls in the Annapurna Conservation Area, the largest protected area of Nepal.

Experts believe the caves were once used as burial chambers in 1000 BC. Picture: Shutterstock Experts believe the caves were once used as burial chambers in 1000 BC. Picture: Shutterstock

The Mysterious Caves 

Carved high into the mountain walls in the Upper Mustang region are small cavities that seem inaccessible from the ground, lending them the name ‘Sky Caves’. There are trek organisers that take you closer to the caves in Nepal, which lie almost 150 feet off the ground. Experts believe the caves were once used as burial chambers in 1000 BC. Later on, as battles reigned in the region, families moved into these stacked caves, turning them into mini-cities. Around the 1400s, people slowly moved into villages, like Samdzong, built on the plains near the river, leaving the caves abandoned and forgotten for centuries before they were discovered again. Even today, local communities believe these mountains to have spiritual powers. 

Local communities believe these mountains to have spiritual powers. Picture: Shutterstock Local communities believe these mountains to have spiritual powers. Picture: Shutterstock

In the mid-1990s, an expedition by archaeologists from Nepal and the University of Cologne revealed dozens of skeletons believed to be 2,000 years old. This discovery has since prompted many researchers into the caves to decipher their history and relevance for ancient civilisations. As recent as 2016, a 1,200-year-old skeleton was discovered in a cave tomb in Samdzong, adding to almost 100 skeletal remains found in the tombs here since 2010.

What is most interesting though is the fact that some skeletons that were found here had cut marks that signified the practice of a Buddhist burial tradition called Sky Burial, where the dead are left to be devoured by vultures. However, these skeletons were from centuries before Buddhism came to Mustang.

You can explore Mustang on treks that range from a few days to weeks. Picture: Unsplash You can explore Mustang on treks that range from a few days to weeks. Picture: Unsplash

Adventure Treks 

A trek to the sky caves takes you through the arid landscape of the Tibetan plateau, across its duns and red sandstone cliffs, immersing you in stories of the ancient salt trade route between Mustang and Tibet and of local communities in villages like Yara and Chhusang, which are some of the remotest regions in the world. Lo Manthang, once the capital of this region, also houses Gompas, a royal palace and traditional homes that can be explored on your journey. 

If you are headed here, make a pit stop at The Mustang Eco Museum, about a 15-minute walk from Jomsom airport, which houses a vast collection of artefacts such as beads, pendants and bones found by scientists inside the burial caves. On display are musical instruments, costumes and mannequins that offer an insight into the culture of Mustang. 

Jomsom, the starting point of the Lo Kingdom in Upper Mustang. Picture: Unsplash Jomsom, the starting point of the Lo Kingdom in Upper Mustang. Picture: Unsplash

Important Information: Foreign visitors must pay a $500 entry fee to Mustang that is valid for ten days. US$50 per day is charged for every extra day. 

How To Reach Sky Caves, Mustang

All international flights land at Kathmandu, from where you can take a flight/cab to Pokhara. From Pokhara, a flight/car ride takes you to Jomson, the starting point of the Lo Kingdom in Upper Mustang.

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