A classic biker jacket, trench coats and day dresses – leather has been a perennial source of inimitable style. A contemporary favourite, it has made regular comebacks in collections of luxury houses and premium brands worldwide. India, too, is ubiquitous with leather production; it handles around 13% of the world’s leather production owing to an abundance of raw materials.
Nonetheless, as the clamour around sustainability rings louder than ever, 2022 was also when leather alternatives took the centre-stage in India to counter the many criticisms that come with leather products. From pollution to high carbon emissions, along with alleged malpractices in slaughterhouses, the leather industry has received pushback from various corners. But will it endure?
Leather Alternatives Hope To Rule The Roost
Some brands make accessories from apple peel skin, called Apple leather
A report by Coherent Market Insights, a global market intelligence and consulting organisation based in India, pegs the global vegan fashion market to rise to US$ 835.7 Bn by 2030, exhibiting a CAGR of 7.1% during the forecast period (2022-2030). The vegan fashion market has been burgeoning in India as well, with many small and big players venturing into the space, along with the backing of eminent names. The reason? A growing generation of conscious consumers demands vegan, eco-friendly footwear, clothing, cosmetics and more.
But is vegan all it’s slated to be? Much of the vegan industry runs on faux leather materials made from PU or PVC, forms of plastic; they are detrimental to the environment. It is here that other eco-conscious brands using sustainable leather hope to make a difference.
Sustainable Alternatives
Many safer leather alternatives have now entered the fashion ramp, such as Mylo, which is made from mushroom roots and was incorporated in Stella McCartney’s collections. Ganni used another alternative, Vegea, a material made with waste from grapes used in wines. And Chanel used Pinatex, a pineapple-based leather, in its handbags.
FOReT makes accessories from sustainable materials such as cork
Closer home, FOReT, a sustainable fashion brand, recently unveiled cork-based and upcycled banana bark vegan leather jewellery for men. “Leather is one of the most resilient and adaptable materials. It’s ideal for creating purses, wallets, shoes, and belts. It is frequently passed down from generation to generation as its durability increases with age. However, it has its restrictions. The tanning process is detrimental to both the environment and the workers,” says Supriya Shirsat Satam, Founder & CEO of FOReT.
At FOReT, the focus is on sustainability. “We mainly use upcycled bark from the Cork Oak Tree and banana bark for our raw materials; harvesting the bark does not harm the tree but aids its rejuvenation. Additionally, all of our materials are of premium quality, recyclable and durable,” she adds.
Desserto (cactus leather), Mirum, Pinatex, cork and upcycled fabrics are used by Studio Beej in its products
Studio Beej, a sustainable lifestyle and accessories brand, also offers plant-based vegan alternatives; for example, their handbags are made with Desserto (cactus leather), Mirum, Pinatex, cork and upcycled fabrics. “These are materials that are bio-based to a large extent, entirely or partially recyclable and have a low carbon impact. Apart from materials, we look at sustainability across the product life cycle- manufacturing in small batches, no excess inventory, plastic-free and reusable packaging,” shares Arundhati, founder of Studio Beej.
And it is not just new brands that are moving towards ethical leather alternatives. Celebrated designer Anita Dongre too, recently launched a line of plant-based vegan luxury handbags for women. The accessories are made using Mirum, a new plant-based material which is 100% natural, 0% plastic, and cruelty-free. “The vegan accessories line is a dream come true with material sciences presenting us with leather alternatives that are luxurious and high quality while being cruelty-free and environmentally friendly,” she says.
Anita Dongre has launched a line of plant-based vegan luxury handbags
The market, too, has seen an exponential increase in the uptake of leather alternates. “In terms of revenue generated by vegan products through our websites and pop-up stores, we’ve witnessed the numbers rise exponentially. While millennials seem to be central drivers of this worldwide shift of normalising plant-based lifestyles and leading consumer demand, the movement is bigger than any generation. Everyone, from celebrities to athletes to multinational companies, has accepted this new way of living,” express Deepak Ramakrishna, co-founder at Suspire, a marketplace that promotes sustainable, vegan, and cruelty-free products.
An Uphill Journey
But are these innovations enough to sway consumers towards sustainable leather alternatives? “At FOReT, our plant-based materials boast their unique features. Cork, for example, is incredibly soft and smooth yet water-resistant, durable and lightweight with tiny grains of bark. Through our designs, we strive to emphasise these qualities. We design our products to be desired for the statement they make and not just as an alternative,” Satam adds. Communication is also necessary; awareness and adoption is still a hurdle for sustainable vegan brands. “Historically, people who used leather were reluctant to make shifts because no high-quality vegan alternatives were available–everything was synthetic. But now that’s changing. There are still questions in the consumers’ mind around quality, durability, price etc., which brands like us try to address through our communication continuously,” explains Arundhati.
Pinatex bow ties by Studio Beej
Ramakrishna echoes a similar sentiment and credits rising conscious consumerism for a positive response within the industry, which is moving away from leather towards sustainable alternatives. However, the price point continues to be an issue. “Many contemporary and innovative brands have set foot in the space with plant-based alternatives like cactus, apple, and pineapple leather that aim to lessen the environmental impact; however, they are not very accessible or affordable yet. Nonetheless, with technological advancement and an increase in conscious consumerism globally, there’s a huge scope for plant-based leather to revolutionise how people shop,” he opines.
Plant-based sustainable vegan leather is making its place in the market 
Some brands make accessories from apple peel skin, called Apple leather
FOReT makes accessories from sustainable materials such as cork
Desserto (cactus leather), Mirum, Pinatex, cork and upcycled fabrics are used by Studio Beej in its products
Anita Dongre has launched a line of plant-based vegan luxury handbags
Pinatex bow ties by Studio Beej
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