From Bombay To Sri Lanka: A Journey Of Food, Flavours And Culture With Chef Karan Gokani
Lawyer-turned-chef Karan Gokani, co-founder and Creative Director of the hugely-popular Hoppers Restaurants in London, takes us on a journey to explore Sri Lanka like a local
As someone who grew up in Bombay, and went on to study in the UK, my only perception, or rather knowledge, of Sri Lanka was limited to a few aspects. I remembered anecdotes from the Ramayana that we had all heard growing up and Sri Lanka’s identity as a competitive cricketing nation with the Dilmah fronted shirts. It was only when I made my first Lankan friends at University in London that I was blown away by this island nation; it was similar to South India (where we spent many of our childhood holidays) but, in many ways, so different.
Looking for street food at Galle Face
Once in Sri Lanka, you can’t escape their love for food. The food expresses the country’s rich heritage and is as diverse as its communities. The cuisine also bears a distinct influence from East Asian cuisines , particularly Malaysian and Indonesian. There is so much culture and culinary prowess packed in this small island, and much of it has inspired us at Hoppers.
The food at Hoppers. Clockwise: Egg Hoppers; Hot Butter Squid; Bone Marrow Varuval
Colombo
Like most bustling capital cities, Colombo is an excellent introduction to the country, with a vivid culture that never fails to enthral. I always recommend first-time travellers to spend some time in this part of the country, which has much to offer. I go straight to Upali’s, one of my favourite authentic Sri Lankan restaurants, which is also a hit with the locals. They do food like what we eat at home. My favourite dish is the spicy mutton varuval, followed by the black-prawn curry.
The Dutch Burgher Union in Colombo is a must-add to any culinary itinerary. They do a mean lamprais or black pork curry for lunch. Get there early as they run out of food pretty swiftly, and don’t forget to order a homemade ginger beer to wash it all down.
Colombo’s Pettah market will remind you of Mumbai’s Crawford Market
The Pettah Market in Colombo often reminds me of Mumbai’s Crawford Market; you can shop for spices and souvenirs here. The Sri Lankan equivalent of Mumbai’s Chowpatty is Galle Face Green, where street food like acharu (spicy fruit pickles) and isso vade (prawn and lentil fritters) entice travellers before heading to The Galle Face Hotel, a heritage hotel, for a nightcap and a stunning sunset.
For later in the night, hit up Botanik for rooftop drinks and nibbles, or New Colonial for an arrack sour at one of Colombo’s oldest dive bars, right opposite Fort railway station.
Bentota
In this beautiful beach town, Lunuganga Estate, Geoffrey Bawa’s country estate, is the perfect destination to sip on cocktails with unfettered lake views.
Cards on the table, I tend to stay at Jetwing hotels across the country when I visit (I love their properties and the people behind them equally). Their work integrates perfectly with the local community and society, and they work with locals to provide some of the most authentic experiences. Saman Villas in Bentota is one of their finest hotels and perched atop a hill sandwiched by vast stretches of beaches it provides idyllic views and coastal walks.
Galle
From Bentota, I often make my way to Galle, a quaint beach town where there are many boutique hotels that travellers can choose from. My recommendations include Jetwing Lighthouse and Amangalla Hotel, a relic of the past, where you can savour a cup of Ceylon tea, its fragrant aroma mingling with tales of colonial history.
The light house of Galle. Picture: Unsplash
Stroll along the narrow streets, caressed by the gentle sea breeze, and lose yourself in the colonial architecture that harks back to a bygone era. Food is more hit-and-miss here, so make friends with the locals; ask your tuk-tuk driver or hotel staff to point you to the best spot for authentic local rice and curry (a term used for their thalis). Chances are, you’ll find the best place in this city for great food.
And if it’s a drink you are looking for, I love sipping an espresso martini at Fort Printers, while watching people stroll by.
Cooking with locals in Jaffna
Unawatuna
Down south from Galle I love the bustling seaside town of Unawatuna. While the food scene is ever changing around here, I love La Boheme for consistently delicious Italian pizzas and always pop over across the road to Wild & Sage Bookshop where you can spend a few hours reading some old Lankan novels and of course pick up a copy of Hoppers: The Cookbook.
Karan (left) at Smoke and Bitters
Ahangama
This new tropical town, a surfer’s delight, is coming up quickly on the food scene in Sri Lanka. Once here, hitch a tuk-tuk and head to Citra, which serves some of the best Israeli food I’ve ever had. Trax, an indie-music venue set alongside a train track (inspiring the name) is where you will find all the cool kids letting their hair down.
Trax, an indie-music venue set alongside a train track
For a rice and curry lunch, head to Veda Café, the female run community kitchen serves all vegan food and refreshing tropical juices.
Hiriketiya and Tangalle
Further east along the coast, Hiriketiya is a great little beachside town that’s grown hugely in popularity recently. Smoke and Bitters is my favourite spot there for a drink or food but there’s always something new popping up, so speak to people and follow the herd.
The tea plantations of Nuwara Eliya
Nuwara Eliya
In the verdant tea gardens of Nuwara Eliya, I recommend staying at The Grand Hotel; they have a farm which produces a lot of their dairy and produce, and a buffet with some of the best hoppers I’ve eaten. The hotel itself is one of the best kept colonial relics on the island, with service and hospitality to match.
