Bebinca: Layered History Of The Queen Of Desserts
More than just a dessert, Bebinca, the Goan delicacy which was recently given a GI tag, is a vessel for stories
It was about a decade ago that I first savoured a slice of Bebinca. I was unaware of its cultural relevance, or the fact that it proudly wore the title of the queen of desserts in Goan gastronomy. I had perched myself on the terrace of our quaint hostel, surrounded by the gentle sounds of crashing waves and the warmth of the coastal sun on my skin, and eagerly taken my first bite. It was a bit of heaven on a plate, and my exaltations, which seemed quite high at that time, are quite in measure now for this sweetmeat has recently been given the coveted Geographical Indication (GI) tag.
Bebinca can have anywhere between seven to 16 layers. Picture: Shutterstock
My tryst with bebinca wasn’t very authentic; a friend had picked a store variety up on a routine trip to Braganza Stores and I now know that it did not have the number of layers a true bebinca is supposed to have. While its GI tag has helped it jump into commonplace conversations over the last few days, bebinca has been an integral part of Goan celebrations, especially during festivals and special occasions for years, and offers insight into the Portuguese influence that reigns supreme in Goa’s culinary history.
How Bebinca Came To Be
Like with most foods, the history of this multi-layered Goan pudding is debatable. A popular age-old story credits nuns – specifically Sister Bebiana and her group from Santa Monica Convent in Old Goa – for the recipe. The egg yolks, left after the sisters would starch their robes with egg whites, would be incorporated into puddings. The name is an ode to Sister Bebiana, as the legend goes.
Nonetheless, this dessert, also called ‘Bibik’, has a simple ingredient list. A basic recipe combines egg yolks with flour, coconut milk, sugar, and ghee. With layers that can range anywhere between seven and 16, making a bebinca is a masterclass in patience. Each layer is baked individually with a spattering of ghee on top till it gets a stunning caramel colour. The final dessert, which takes a minimum of 4 hours to prepare, is often garnished with nutmeg and slivered almonds and carries within its layers the essence of cultural amalgamation between Indian and Portuguese culinary traditions.
Often, true bebinca enthusiasts use earthenware ovens called tizals to bake this dessert. Other alternatives include using an OTG to allow for slow caramelisation of sugar. Beyond its historical significance, Bebinca holds a deep emotional connection for the people of Goa. It is savoured primarily on Christmas, often with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, and local bakeries remain flooded for weeks leading up to the day. It’s a dessert that embodies family gatherings, community celebrations, and the passing down of traditions from one generation to the next. With its intricate preparation process, and simply for its flavour, bebinca is a true labour of love.
Bebinca was recently granted the GI tag. Picture: Shutterstock
