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Tucked near FC Road, this 80-year-old bhojanalaya continues to draw families for its simple, affordable Maharashtrian meals

Tucked away on FC Road, Janseva Bhojanalaya has been serving homely Maharashtrian vegetarian thalis since 1945.

Run by three generations of the Devdhar family, it remains a symbol of comfort, memory and culinary continuity in Pune.Janseva Bhojanalaya has quietly served affordable Maharashtrian vegetarian thalis on FC Road for nearly 80 years. (Express Photo)

Written by Advaya Apte

At the edge of FC Road, just before the traffic thickens at Deccan Chowk, stands a place many Punekars pass every day without a second glance. Inside, however, time has moved slowly for nearly eight decades. Started in 1945, Janseva Bhojanalaya is one of Pune’s oldest surviving lunch homes, quietly serving homely Maharashtrian vegetarian meals to generations of students, families and office-goers.

What began as a modest, student-centric mess has gradually evolved into a popular thali restaurant. Yet, the essence remains unchanged. True to its name — Janseva, meaning “in service of the people” — the bhojanalaya has built its reputation on affordable food, consistent taste and a sense of familiarity that keeps customers returning.

 

Earlier, Janseva served a limited thali. Over the years, the shift to unlimited vegetarian thalis has drawn more people in, especially families. Dishes like masale bhat, alu bhaji and amti form the backbone of the everyday menu, while Sundays see a special thali with an extra sweet. Amti, a staple Maharashtrian lentil soup, continues to be one of the restaurant’s strongest identifiers.

Several employees have spent most of their working lives here, contributing to the restaurant’s sense of continuity. Several employees have spent most of their working lives here, contributing to the restaurant’s sense of continuity.

Much like the food, the people at Janseva have remained constant. Somanaraja Nemane, 63, has been working as a server at Janseva Bhojanalaya for over 40 years. “This restaurant holds many memories for me and is practically like a home,” he says. “I eat my meals here and have good relations with other workers.”

Recalling the earlier days, Nemane says, “When I started working here, this was a student-centric mess. People used to sit on traditional paat and wooden tables. Those were different days. Now we are trying to adapt as the age requires.”

Inside the kitchen, the story is similar. Atmaram Kadam, 55, has been working as a cook at Janseva for the past 30 years. “The working environment here is very positive,” he says. “We have been consistent with our signature taste over all these years.”

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Today, the third generation of the Devdhar family is carrying the legacy forward. Nachiket Sacheen Devdhar, 27, recently joined his father, Sacheen Devdhar, in managing the bhojanalaya. “Janseva Bhojanalaya has been functioning for the past 80 years. My grandfather bought this place in 1971. My father has been looking after it for the past 35 years,” he says.

Nachiket recalls how the restaurant began as a family effort. “My grandmother used to cook, while my grandfather made chapatis. Later, in 1992, my father started Mehfil Catering Services. We also expanded to Vrindavan, our banquet hall,” he says.

Known for dishes like patwadi, gul poli and puran poli, Janseva also serves seasonal specials such as undhiyo, gajar halwa, modak and aamras during Ganesh Chaturthi. Pudachi wadi, a lesser-known farsan, is another offering not easily found elsewhere. “We attempt to serve the ordinary man,” Nachiket says, adding that families are now their primary customers.

While plans are underway to revamp the restaurant’s look and adapt to changing times through platforms like Swiggy and Zomato, Nachiket is clear that the identity will remain intact. “We don’t want to do something new just for the sake of it,” he says. “Our taste and major layout have remained unchanged. Our cooks and staff are our backbone.”

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For long-time patrons, that consistency is what keeps them returning. Santosh Mirajkar, 50, says his association with Janseva spans generations. “My parents used to come here to eat, now I come here with my daughters,” he says. “The quality of food and service is what draws me back every time. My favourite dish is simple varan-bhat.”
In a city where food trends change rapidly, Janseva Bhojanalaya continues to serve something increasingly rare — continuity, memory and comfort, one thali at a time.

(Advaya is an intern)


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