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The trend extends to Kothrud’s seafood specialists at Fish on Dish. (Photo by special arrangement)
Written by Alister Augustine
At Satvik Misal House in Pimple Gurav, Sandra Pillay, 26, a client service professional, digs into her morning meal, noting a distinct change in the taste of the city’s favourite breakfast, misal pav.
Pillay said, “The best-selling Special Misal here suddenly has a smoky depth to it. I enquired and discovered it’s because the tarri (oil layer) absorbs that wood-fired aroma, which you cannot replicate on a gas burner. At Rs 80, it’s the best value-for-money breakfast in the area. You can tell the flavour is cooked over hours, not just boiled quickly on gas.”
A month and a half since the switch, customers like Pillay are driving a trend that started as a financial necessity but has turned into a culinary success amid the West Asia war.
It is this positive feedback that keeps the coal fires burning at Misal House, where the shift was originally a matter of basic math.
“For a long time, we viewed coal as an inconvenience. But today, it’s our biggest survival advantage,” said Atharv Jadhav, 46, head of the store. He explained that a 19-kg commercial gas cylinder now costs Rs 2,091. In a high-volume establishment, one cylinder lasts barely two days. “In contrast, we buy coal at Rs 35 to Rs 40 per kg. We use about 15-20 kg of coal a day, which costs us less than Rs 800–nearly half the daily cost of gas,” Jadhav said.
Operational efficiency key
The operational efficiency is equally significant, as one coal fire burns steadily for five to six hours. “In that one go, we keep our 40-litre vessel of satarat rassa simmering on one side, while the other side toasts the pav. This allows us to keep our price at Rs 80 despite the inflation,” Jadhav said. He noted that switching back to gas would force a price hike to Rs 110 for the unlimited plate just to break even.
The trend extends to Kothrud’s seafood specialists at Fish on Dish. Manager Sunil Kulkarni, 39, said, “The volatility of gas prices, which rose by Rs 195 in the last month alone, made overheads unpredictable. By pivoting back to coal, we have now found stability. We source wood charcoal at roughly Rs 45 per kg. A single ‘sigree’ (coal stove) using 8 kg of coal stays hot for an entire afternoon shift.”
The long-lasting heat sears the outside of the fish while keeping the meat juicy. “Our fuel cost is now under Rs 500 a day. This allows us to offer our surmai tawa fry at Rs 709 without compromising on size. We look at coal as a strategic partner,” Kulkarni added.
A regular customer there, Rohan Ghongade agreed and said, “The grilled surmai is the standout here. You taste the char from the coal, which gives it a crust gas flames can’t match. Everyone raised their prices, but here the quality stayed consistent because they are not at the mercy of gas companies.”
Even legacy establishments in Camp are making the pivot. Reza Aryaei, 44, owner of the iconic George Restaurant, said the global energy crisis has turned coal into an economic necessity. And perhaps even an unintended advantage.
Aryaei said, “Commercial rates are at the mercy of the market. We use premium coal at Rs 50–60 per kg.” He also highlighted the “residual heat” as a major benefit. “After the main cooking is done, the embers stay hot for another three or four hours. We slow-cook gravies or keep biryani on dum without spending an extra rupee. It is the most sensible way to keep our 100-year legacy alive,” he added.
Alister Augustine is an intern with The Indian Express, Pune.